With the flashing lights, the lasers, and the music detonating at 169 decibels, the modern bowling alley often seems like an '80s glam-metal show hosted by George Lucas. Mahall's harks back to purer, better days, when Bowling for Dollars was a television staple, and the neighborhood alley -- along with the parish and pub -- formed the holy trinity of Cleveland social life. Think of a 1963 alley frozen in time, beautifully retro without pretense or self-consciousness. Mahall's offers down-home bowling as it was meant to be: manual scoring, handrails for the aged, pin lights that only occasionally work, and a pool hall to retreat to when your game isn't on. There's also the all-important bar. With games running a mere $1.75, bowlers have plenty of extra money to unload there.