Oh, sure, trendy Asian-fusion fare is fun. And Californian Pacific Rim stuff rules. But sometimes we find ourselves craving the basics: a crisp-skinned, well-packed egg roll with sinus-clearing Chinese mustard; a platter of soft and comforting veggie-studded fried rice; or even simple, saucy pepper steak, with lots of beef, bell pepper, and onion. These are the times we head over to Hunan of Solon, David Cameron and Kenny Chau's stylish little Chinese restaurant. This is not to imply that anything here will ever remind you of Friday-night "Chinese dinners" that mom poured out of a can. Not at all. Tastes are fresh and bright, presentation is lovely, and the choices -- wonderful Walnut Prawns, tangy Tangerine Chicken, and luscious Lobster With Basil Sauce, for instance -- can be as sophisticated as imaginable. But when all we really, really want is a big bowl of sesame noodles, a pot of green tea, and a fortune cookie, we can't think of anyplace we would rather go.