The Moroccan tagines
and couscous are wonderful, but chef-owner Wahed Haydouni's bastilla
is a culinary tour de force, a mother-and-child reunion of buttery shredded chicken and gently scrambled eggs, accented with parsley and almonds, baked in a fragile phyllo crust, and served with an ample sprinkling of powdered sugar and cinnamon. Astonishingly fragrant and full of delicious dichotomies (sweet versus savory, crisp against moist) -- it's easy to see why this unique dish plays a pivotal role in traditional North African celebrations. But more simply, it's just plain fun to eat: "Like having dessert for dinner!" as one delighted guest put it.