Century at the Ritz-Carlton 1515 West Third Street, Cleveland; 216-902-5255.
As sleek and sophisticated as its namesake, the famous New-York-to-Chicago Twentieth Century Limited, the Ritz-Carlton's new restaurant on the Avenue at Tower City is ever so much more than an elegant homage to the Golden Age of Railroading. In fact, the glorious deco decor soon takes a backseat to the impeccable ingredients, delicate textures, and saturated flavors that come out of the kitchen here, where a contemporary fusion fisson informs every dish. No less remarkable is the professional but unstuffy service, which, when paired with the imaginative presentation, gives a meal here the kind of energy that too often is missing from a midwestern "fine dining" experience. Isn't this a great time to be a hungry Clevelander?