It's not the menu
at this hippest of all downtown restaurants that is extraordinary: After all, Clevelanders have certainly seen their share of mussels, calamari, and farfalle with vodka cream. Ah, but the preparation . . . now that's
another matter entirely. It's as if Executive Chef Todd Stein and his crew have access to the secret spring from which all flavors flow, and they sprinkle that rare eau de vie
on everything they touch. So, yeah, you've had lamb chops (or roast chicken or tuna) before. But you've never tasted anything like this.