they want to go to the Flats. They heard (from someone who was here 5 years ago, who heard it from someone 10 years ago) that the Flats is The Place to Go in Cleveland, the Symbol of the City's Rebirth. But your friends are not the type who enjoy puking in sidewalk trash cans at 2:30 a.m. So you take them east, drive slowly up Mayfield Road (because that's the only speed at which you can drive up Mayfield), park on a side street, stroll past the old houses, and linger in front of a gallery window or two. Then you treat them to a sublime evening of good wine, Italian food, coffee, pastries, and a walk back up the crowded streets. If your friends are Midwesterners, they'll be in awe. Even if they're jaded types from the coasts, they'll know an authentic city neighborhood when they see one.