There are more than a few reasons -- fine service, impeccable foods, and the peerless ministrations of chef-owner Paul Minnillo among them -- to choose this stately inn as the best restaurant in town, period. But, jeez, it's pricey. When Veuve Cliquot goes for $17.50 per flute, and even a glass of milk will set you back $3.50, your occasion had best be damn special before you pull up a chair and unfurl your napkin here. Unless, of course, you can con someone else into buying. In that case, bring on the Beluga caviar and the Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape. If the tab reaches $300 for two, what the heck do you care? It's only (someone else's) money!