It's a handsome contemporary room, with worn wooden floors, soaring windows, ductwork-cum-art, and a vibe as lively and engaging as any place in the city. And yes, it's still all the buzz, even a year after its opening. But ultimately, what makes Fire hot is its food -- simple, straightforward, and with extraordinary depth of flavor -- thanks to the talents of chef-owner Doug Katz and his trusty tandoor. From aïoli-streaked naan to the most astonishingly succulent rib-eye steaks, the items that come out of that clay oven are out of this world, with mouthwatering richness and flavor to spare. If this were all Fire did well, it would be enough. But even non-tandoori items, like thin-crusted pizzas, savory coq au vin, and luscious pastas, are superlative: inventive, creative, and totally accessible little works of art.