The artful digs make a tasteful backdrop to the 200-item menu, ranging from salads and soups to noodle dishes, rice plates, and stews, in varieties to suit both carnivores and vegetarians. In the face of such abundance, the only reasonable approach is to just dive in. Sometimes, that might mean sticking to old favorites, like the exemplary spring rolls and pad thai. Other times, it may lead to exotic adventures like banh sougnh, a fragrant tangle of rice noodles, bean sprouts, whipped coconut milk, and finely shredded veggies, topped with chopped spring rolls, ground peanuts, and lemongrass. Whatever you choose, you can count on simple ingredients that yield delicious complexity.