Nouvelle cuisine be damned. It's a meat-and-potatoes world out there, and we've seen the herd of upscale steakhouses to prove it. For our big bucks, though, the best is Red, an elegantly spare restaurant where Prime aged beef reigns supreme. Lightly seasoned, perfectly seared, and bursting with primal flavors, these steaks are an object lesson in the beauty of simplicity. And presented solo, on oversized porcelain rectangles, they look almost like works of art. Of course, even meatheads can't live on steak alone. So Executive Chef Jonathan Bennett has developed a collection of savory sides, including slender, pliable frites
and tender-crisp baby green beans dressed up in salty pancetta and loads of toasted pine nuts. Steakhouses this well done are rare.