Sometimes, good things do
come in small packages. That holds true for tiny Sapporo Sushi, where seven tables and a six-seat sushi bar just about pack the tiny space to overflowing. On the other hand, there is nothing small about the sushi coming out of owner and chef Young Ho Kim's kitchen: not the styles, not the flavors, and certainly not the portions, which are among the most generous in town. Take the spicy tuna roll. Each embarrassingly large mouthful is a little detonation of velvet fire. Or consider the unagi tempura "big roll," a tasty riot of smoky eel, salty roe, silken cream cheese, and sleek avocado, in a deep-fried wrapper. Even creations like the massive vegetarian futomaki rock our socks. A combo of cucumber, spinach, avocado, asparagus, carrots, pickled cabbage (oshinko), and pickled squash (kampyo), wrapped in delicately seasoned sticky rice and nori, it resonates with sweet and savory flavors. The result is a light, refreshing, but profoundly satisfying way of dining, right in the heart of downtown.