This being Zack Bruell's fifth Cleveland restaurant, diners now know they can expect high-caliber service, an interior pulled from the pages of Architectural Digest, and a menu the size of Atlas Shrugged. What Bruell calls "modern French-American" might just as well be billed New Mediterranean, with nods to Morocco, France and Italy. In the end, the food is characteristically Bruellian: tidy stacks of meat and veg resting in an opulent sauce, diamond-cut by the acidity of lemon.
This polished Mediterranean bistro is a welcome addition to a street known more for its pubs than posh eateries. An easygoing vibe belies the level of talent in the kitchen and prowess on the plate. Elegantly composed dishes sing with clear flavor, purpose and direction. In the chefs hands, items like seared scallops and rack of lamb are at once familiar and original. Consider the prix fixe menu, which includes an appetizer, entrée, dessert and two glasses of wine for $45.
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