So it seemed promising when Robert Ledzianowski took over the kitchen in January. Most recently chef de cuisine at Cleveland's One Walnut, Ledzianowski introduced a streamlined menu of contemporary Mediterranean fare. And now I'm sorry I waited five months to visit. Ledzianowski's creations -- featuring a tightly composed interplay of seasonal, artisanal ingredients and imaginative seasonings -- have put Vue's food on equal footing with the surroundings.
Prices still aren't cheap -- a couple can easily drop $100 for dinner and a few glasses of wine -- but dishes like creamy asparagus bisque, garnished with crème fraîche and a nugget of lobster claw ($7), or heirloom beet salad, with pristine greens, white asparagus, and big crumbles of creamy goat cheese ($9), serve up quality and value, as well as good taste. (A less expensive "bistro menu" is served in the lounge.)
Among entrées, an opalescent filet of wild Alaskan halibut ($27) had such delicacy that we feared a disapproving glance might dissolve it. And moist pork tenderloin enrobed in spicy ground chorizo ($22), served with fresh fava beans, a cilantro-rich salsa verde, and an uptown version of mofongo (with whipped plantains, hard-cooked egg, garlic, and shallots), proved smart and coherent, yet spirited.
Eleven desserts incorporate fruits, nuts, custards, cheese, and spices in some novel combinations. We hit the sweet spot with a chocolate-mocha torte ($7.50), garnished with a bit of orange-fennel marmalade and cardamom-flavored mascarpone.
Other amenities include a distinguished international wine list, a sophisticated sidewalk-dining area, and Sunday brunch. To make reservations, call 330-650-1883.
Fresh Korney: Since leaving Vue, Korney has been fashioning Velocity American Bistro, his new restaurant at 10427 Clifton Boulevard on Cleveland's western edge. A grand opening is slated for this week.
