"The result is food that looks familiar and comforting but tastes fresh and modern."
What does this mean? It serves meatballs that look like grandma's, as you point out, but are made by someone who thinks like a chef, so...how are they fresh and modern? If they use fresh garlic or oregano, grandma did (at least in several of the better Italians around town), so what is fresh and modern, here?
"What is unique about Dervish is the remarkable restraint the owners exhibited when it came to decorating. Unlike too many ethnic restaurants, the imported tchotchkes here are kept to a tasteful minimum."
Right--what a shame if Trattner's delicate sensibilities should be offended by somebody taking visible pride in their own culture. Bland uniformity is so much more...flavorful.
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What does this mean? It serves meatballs that look like grandma's, as you point out, but are made by someone who thinks like a chef, so...how are they fresh and modern? If they use fresh garlic or oregano, grandma did (at least in several of the better Italians around town), so what is fresh and modern, here?
Right--what a shame if Trattner's delicate sensibilities should be offended by somebody taking visible pride in their own culture. Bland uniformity is so much more...flavorful.