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Food & Drink

Best Bread the Size of Your Head 

Udupi Café

There's an old adage: Never eat anything bigger than your head. Well, the oversized bhatura at Udupi Café is the exception that proves the rule. Resembling a giant golden football, the hollow puff of deep-fried bread - a cross between Navajo fry bread and Yorkshire pudding - offers an almost embarrassingly seductive combo of crispness and custard-like lushness. Used as an implement for scooping up a spicy stew of chickpeas garnished with thickly sliced onion, a lemon wedge, and a green chile (chana bhatura), or as an accompaniment to a sturdy vegetable curry (poori bhaji), bhatura just may be the best culinary concept to come out of India since the gas-fired tandoor.

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December 1, 2021

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