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Food & Drink

Best Modern Mex 

Momocho

After years of slogging through gringo-fied menus of ersatz "Mexican" eats -- complete with greasy ground beef, waxy cheese sauces, and bottled salsas -- our region is now awash with casually upscale restaurants that combine the best in modern American cooking with the authentic flavors of the traditional Mexican cocina. At the crest of the wave you'll find Momocho, where chef/owner Eric Williams' small menu bursts with creative fare -- like the lamb chops, rubbed with a tangy red chile-paste adobo and lightly stroked with jalapeño-mustard crema. As a backdrop to the gustatory sizzle, the historic Ohio City space, done up in a Día de los Muertos-style decor of demon masks and grinning skulls, adds a hip, edgy vibe. The result is a restaurant so good, it's downright scary.

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February 24, 2020

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