Scene Dining Critic Doug Trattner's Favorite Comfort Foods in Cleveland

Angie’s Soul Cafe, Smothered pork chops

Angie’s might be in a new home but it’s still delivering comfort food for the ages in Cleveland. Doug’s been going for 20 odd years now and, “I’ve always been deeply enamored of Angie's pork chops ($14.95), a pair of semi-thick bone-in chops that are fried, baked and smothered in sweet onions and thick gravy. As with all entrees, the price includes two sides and a fragrant corn muffin. The mac and cheese is thick, creamy and mild, the collard greens are pleasantly meaty, the black-eyed peas earthy and firm-tender, and the steamed rice ideal for sopping up anything saucy.”

Balaton, Veal Crepe

It wasn’t the end of the story for Balafon when the Hungarian restaurant shuttered at Shaker Square, and we should all be thankful. It’ll soon open in Bainbridge, its third location since the 1960s when it launched on Buckeye Rd. It won’t be soon enough until we can all once again enjoy one of Doug’s favorites — an eggy crepe folded around a mixture of ground veal and mushrooms and bathed in a rich paprikash-like gravy.

Banter, Poutine

As the west side counts down the days until Banter makes its return to Detroit-Shoreway, a reminder that there are few better pleasures in this world that bring comfort as immense as a plate of frites, gravy and cheese curds.

Bearden's, Double Steakburger

Bearden's has been around since 1948, with a brief one-year closure, but Doug didn't step foot in the doors or try one of the legendary burgers until ten years ago. So, when he vouches for it, know that it's not just nostalgia talking: "Bearden's serves old-school, diner-style burgers. That means thin patties cooked on a flat top, then nestled into soft buns with fresh toppings. At just north of three ounces, each patty is petite and not altogether bursting with meaty flavor. But these sandwiches are a 'sum of all parts' experience: bun, meat, tomato, lettuce, and thin-sliced onion coming together in perfect harmony. Upgrade to the Beardenburger and you'll get two patties. You won't likely find a better version of onion rings than the ones served up at Bearden's. Dipped in a housemade batter and fried to a perfect copper hue, these shockingly crisp rings are the gold standard of fried sides. Gilding the lily, the rings come with a choice of dips like dill-spiked ranch, honey mustard, or barbecue."

Bialy's, Big Bag of Mish-Mosh Bagels

Bialy's Big brown bag filled with warm mish-mosh bagels A start to a snowy winter day, the centerpiece for a quick brunch on a sunny one? The mish-mosh bagels from Bialy’s are all-weather and all-comfort. As anyone who follows Doug on Instagram knows, the trick is to get a bag, slice ‘em up, and freeze what you don’t eat that day for ready access down the road without having to leave your house.

Big Al's Diner, Biscuits & Gravy

Doug’s tweeted, IG-ed and written more about Big Al’s Diner than most other places in town, and for good reason.
As he crowned the biscuits and gravy one of the best things he ate in the 2010s: “Mornings are for suckers, but there's one dish in town that makes breakfast bearable: the biscuits and gravy at Big Al's Diner. While everybody else in the room is naively tucking into plates of corned beef hash, discerning diners are slicing into runny eggs to spill that liquid sunshine onto sausage-gravy soaked biscuits. On the side is a hill of onion-spiked hash browns.”

Cordelia, Tongue on Toast

East 4th Street’s newest and most daring restaurant is already a huge hit. Chef Vinnie Cimino’s contemporary takes on seasonal Midwest cookery are propelled by whimsy but grounded by execution and flavor. One standout, among many, from Doug’s visits last year: the tongue on toast, a dish that lingers in his memory months later.

Corky and Lenny’s, Three Little Tootsies

There’s something about a Jewish deli that offers up warmth and in this case, there’s no need to limit your choice to one thing on the menu: Opt for the Three Little Tootsies, three separate, small dinner roll sandwiches, one with corned beef, one with chopped liver, and one with hot pastrami, and get a little bit of everything for yourself.

Der Braumeister, Chicken Paprikash

Things, for the most part, don't change at Der Braumeister, the west side staple that's been dishing up German comfort fare since 1983 and over three generations. Diners can always expect consistency when it comes to the classic dishes, many of which are still made from the original recipes brought from her native Germany by co-founder Lydia Hoertz. The chicken paprikash, with a breast and a leg, braised and baked then served over a bed of either spätzle or mashed potatoes, tastes like it always has, and that's a good thing.

Farkas Pastry Shoppe, Hungarian Dobos Torte

Created by Hungarian pastry chef, Joska Dobos, this traditional torte is made by stacking six crisp, thin wafer cake layers with equal amounts of rich chocolate buttercream. Farkas’ adaptation is topped with handcrafted marzipan and decorated with the same decadent chocolate buttercream. Just look at that beautiful creation.