Oh, there may be a few more video games crammed into the corner with the pool table, and a rear-projection TV now hangs where the U.S. flag once flew. But the roadhouse vibe still lingers, the patio is as welcoming as ever, and beer and tequila still flow like flash floods down a desert canyon.
Best of all, the kitchen is still dishing up some first-rate 'cue, hot out of the Southern Pride smoker parked out back. (Burgers, burritos, salads, sandwiches, and steaks round out the big menu.)
Among the champs, find meaty baby-back ribs ($15.99/half rack), succulent pulled pork ($13.99), and thick-sliced beef brisket ($13.99), as well as the deliciously excessive BBQ Sundae ($11.99): coleslaw, baked beans, and pulled pork, stacked up in a one-quart mason jar! Not only are portions hefty and prices relatively low, but most mains include a choice of two sides (like sweet-potato fries, baked beans, or coleslaw) and a sweet cornmeal muffin -- making meals here a real bonanza.
Cowboy, incidentally, is now managed by the California-based Trifecta Management Group -- the same folks responsible for Flannery's Pub, downtown's Corner Alley and 4th Street Bar & Grill, and the soon-to-launch Zocalo Mexican cantina.
The restaurant is at 8586 East Washington Street in Bainbridge. Call 440-708-1011 or visit www.cowboyfoodanddrink.com for more info.
Sister act . . . Look for Dish Global Deli to launch Tuesday, July 24, in the former Opa! space (1834 West 25th Street), with a menu full of freshly made offerings -- items like the Warm Mushroom Mu Shu Salad (wild 'shrooms, napa cabbage, goat cheese, and maple-soy dressing, $8); the Big Jerk sandwich (crab, cucumber, mango, and jerk aioli, $8.50); and such sides as curried lentils and sweet 'n' spicy soba noodles ($4.50 each). Sisters Heather and Betsy Campbell are the deli's co-owners, and they bring a wealth of both culinary and organizational know-how with them. Chef Heather was former executive chef at the Fulton Bar & Grill; Betsy was former executive director of the Cleveland Rape Crisis Center. Hours will be 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday for brunch. Call 216-589-9700 for details.