It’s been a tough winter, and while the calendar says spring is finally here, you couldn’t prove it by looking out the window.
Don’t fight it. Just take it as an excuse to keep enjoying hearty, rustic fare this weekend –dishes like braised short ribs, lamb shanks, and osso buco, which make cold weather almost bearable.
Take the fabulous osso buco roulade we found on the menu at Christopher’s Aurora Bistro: Luscious bits of pulled-from-the-bone braised veal shank mixed with garlic, herbed cheese, and demi-glace, gently poached inside sheets of homemade egg pasta, then set adrift in a pool of more demi-glace. Like god’s own cannelloni, the dish was so rich, so robust, and so downright irresistible, it was a religious experience. No wonder it’s a mainstay on chef-owner Christopher Shydlowski’s cold-weather menu. …
This article appears in Mar 19-25, 2008.