Grotto Wine Bar isn’t the only new neighbor at Shaker Square. In
early January, Darna Fine Moroccan Cuisine (13114 Shaker Sq.,
216.862.2910) opened in the spot long occupied by Luchita’s. The
restaurant is owned and operated by Said Ouaddaadaa, the man
behind both Bodega (1854 Coventry Rd., 216.932.3060) and Uptowne Grille
(11312 Euclid Ave., 216.229.9711). While Bodega features small plates
from all around the Mediterranean, Darna focuses almost exclusively on
authentic Moroccan cuisine. That means diners can look forward to
elaborate couscous platters, with versions featuring lamb, chicken or
strictly vegetables. Tagines — lush, slow-cooked stews containing
meat and vegetables — are served in their namesake earthenware
vessels. Other entrées include Fez-style stuffed quail with
golden raisins, Berbere stew with prawns, scallops, mussels and Merguez
sausage, and chicken with preserved lemons. Entrées, mostly in
the $16-20 range, are large and designed for sharing. An appetizing
listing of small plates includes mussels roasted with fennel and
saffron, grilled fresh sardines and flaky Moroccan “cigars.” The
cheerful restaurant is decorated in warm, rich reds and oranges, and a
lounge area contains low seating, an American substitute for the
customary floor seating. “The restaurant is beautiful,” says
Ouaddaadaa. “You’ll think you landed in Marrakesh when you come
inside.”
With The Estate on Coffee Creek (1591 Rte. 45, Austinburg,
440.275.5022, coffeecreekestate.com) scheduled
for its grand opening this spring, Nick Kustala has plenty to
keep him busy. Still, he found the time to squeeze in the opening of
another restaurant. “This was totally unexpected,” he explains. “The
owner of a turn-key restaurant suffered a heart attack and could no
longer run it, so I took it over.” Located at the Ashtabula Harbor,
Giovanna’s (1033 Bridge St., 440.964.6964) resurrects the casual
Italian trattoria-style concept he ran on Clifton Blvd. The restaurant,
named after Kustala’s wife, is in a 200-year-old building that most
recently housed the Bridge Street Bistro.
Well, it’s officially official: Lockkeepers (8001 Rockside
Rd., 216.524.9404, lockkeepers.com) has made the transition
from Dante to operation by original owners Frank and Malisse
Sinito. The new Italian-cuisine menu features house-made pastas,
steaks and seafood, including some classics from the old Lockkeepers
Inn days. The entire menu is available for viewing on the restaurant’s
website.
This article appears in Dec 17-23, 2008.
