Graeter's Skyline Chili Ice Cream is... Actually Good?

The Skyline Chili ice cream collab you never knew you needed Credit: Courtesy Graeter's

A friend of mine and longtime Skyline afficionado waited mere moments before clicking the order button on the ice cream collaboration between Graeter’s and the Cincinnati chili emporium, lining up not one, not two, but three pints of the long-rumored crossover production to be shipped to his home in New Jersey.

Trying it? Sure. Stocking the freezer — taste untasted — with back-up pints of what, to many, feels like a gimmick dessert? A ‘way’ too far, perhaps.

“Good luck getting through all those,” I told him.

An hour later, a reply.

“So good,” he reported.

And thus a day later I found myself at the Graeter’s shop at Crocker Park, out of curiosity, out of boredom, out of journalistic duty, to procure a pint of my own.

The report?

Not just edible, but damn good.

Skyline — and Cincinnati-style chili in general — is a contentious culinary subject. Beloved by some, loathed by others. And even for denizens who have already put away a lifetime of three-, four- and five-ways, the idea of a Skyline-inspired ice cream might have felt off-kilter.

And if the flavor conjures up visions of chili and meat, dispense with those notions. What you’ll find instead is something that nods to Skyline instead of channeling it. The warm spices from Skyline’s proprietary blend come through, but wholly different. The allspice, cloves and cinnamon are there weaved through the vanilla ice cream base, but it’s warm in a way other cinnamon desserts are not. It’s not quite savory, just complex. And the oyster crackers, which might at first seem like the oddest inclusion in this whole thing, are a welcome surprise.

And by the way, we’re hardly alone. Judging by responses on social media and firmer, official data — Graeter’s has said demand has exceeded expectations and urged anyone still waiting to try the Skyline ice cream to act fast — it’s a hit.

A lesson learned here at Scene HQ. I should have gotten three pints, not one.

Find it for yourself at Graeter’s scoop shops, Skyline locations, at Kroeger’s and online.

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