Even if it hadn’t snagged a well-deserved spot on the March Bon Appetit’s Hot 10 List, Ohio City’s mod-Mex Momocho (1835 Fulton Rd.) still would be a great bet for dodging the winter blues this weekend, with its dark, cozy vibe, and high-octane eats from chef-owner Eric Williams. But the fact that it got a yet another nod from the national media — this time, with mention of especials “like seared sea scallops with hominy croqueta and jalapeño creamed corn” – adds a little extra sizzle to this already piquant property. (Other recent props include a flattering assessment in the 2008 Zagat guide to America’s Top Restaurants, and notice from Food & Wine.)
Settled inside a circa-1880s house, and done up in a pleasurably sinister pastiche of masks, skulls, and shadowy murals, the space makes a fine backdrop for Williams’ clever takes on authentic Mexican fare, which includes goat cheese guacamole, Kobe beef meatballs, and beer-braised goat. Plus, with an assortment of premium sipping tequilas, keeping warm shouldn’t be an issue. …
This article appears in Feb 6-12, 2008.