To put the documentary Food Fight into proper perspective, the Cleveland Museum of Art (11150 East
Blvd., 216.421.7350. clemusart.org)
has enlisted local food writer Michael Ruhlman to introduce the movie.
Ruhlman has written several books about food and helped Lola chef
Michael Symon pen a cookbook. He’s also a friend of travel writer and
TV host Anthony Bourdain and guested on Bourdain’s No
Reservations when the show stopped in Cleveland.
“I plan to talk about the food issues we’re facing today,” says
Ruhlman. “Food Fight is a good movie. It’s the kind of
thing that if you are really deep into the food scene now, it won’t
offer any new information. I mean, we know a lot of this stuff already.
But if you’re sort of curious or just getting into it, it’s a great
primer for what’s going on in the food world. That’s why I like it and
support it. It’s a good documentary, and I’m glad they’re showing it
here.”
Directed by Chris Taylor, the film begins with a look at how the
“industrial food system” has failed us. The filmmakers maintain that
World War II created the need for new forms of processed food that have
now exceeded the government’s ability to manage food production. The
radical politics of the ’60s, however, brought about a change, at least
in some locales.
A local, sustainable, organic food movement began in Berkeley,
specifically at Alice Waters’ restaurant Chez Panisse, which introduced
local ingredients into its menu. Originally, Waters was looking for
taste. That quest, however, led her to locally produced organic
vegetables and meats. Initially California-centric, the film then
shifts to restaurants in Washington D.C. and New York that have also
introduced healthy items onto their menus. While Cleveland isn’t
mentioned in the film, it certainly could have been, since our city has
become a culinary destination with new local, sustainable, organic
restaurants.
“What’s happening here is happening in a lot of places, as chefs
are able to move back to their hometowns and open restaurants that
serve good, local food,” says Ruhlman. “We have a ton that do it. The
Greenhouse Tavern just opened. There’s Fire Food and Drink and, of
course, Lola. Those folks who are really into these issues are coming
back to cities across the country. They’re not stuck in New York
anymore.”
Food Fight screens at 6:45 p.m. Wednesday, June 3, at the
CMA’s Lecture Hall. Tickets are $8. — Jeff Niesel
This article appears in May 27 – Jun 2, 2009.
