First Look: Edwins Oyster Bar, Opening Wednesday, July 22 in Cleveland Heights

“I think we nailed it,” Brandon Chrostowski says of his new French-style oyster bar.

The slim and trim seafood restaurant, which is located just east of Edwins in the Cedar-Fairmount district of Cleveland Heights, opens its doors on Wednesday, July 22. There are just two dozen stools split between two counters. Another 22 seats are available on a newly built patio carved out of a portion of a parking lot.

“Edwins is successful, it’s going well, and the neighborhood has embraced it,” the chef explains. “Looking here to the east, I saw these two buildings. One of the areas we were deficient in with the program was seafood butchery. We have bakery, we have butcher shop and now we have a fish program.”

Edwins Oyster Bar resides in a former salon space, while the new seafood kitchen and classroom space has settled into the former Zoss bakery building on the same plot. The oyster bar is walk-in only: there are no reservations, there is no host. If all the seats are taken, guests scribble their names on the chalkboard waiting list.

“The idea is to walk in, have a nice glass of wine and a few oysters. Or, if you want to take it to the next level, you can do caviar service and a bottle of Champagne,” says Chrostowski.

There will be a daily selection of East and West Coast oysters, served by the half or full dozen. Other raw bar items include littleneck clams and cold, cooked seafood such as shrimp cocktail, Jonah crab claws, crab legs and Maine lobster. Diners can also order salmon tartare with orange ponzu, mixed fish ceviche, and live scallops served crudo-style with yuzu and olive oil. A very limited selection of hot foods includes steamed clams, steamed razor clams and steamed mussels.

But true seafood lovers likely will opt for one of three platters, which offer an assortment of raw and cooked items like oysters, shrimp, lobster, crab and bulot, boiled sea snails served chilled.

“If you were in Paris and ordered a plateau, you would get a platter with oysters, shrimps and bulot,” Chrostowski adds.

To drink there is spectacular selection of French wines by the glass that leans heavily towards bubbles, whites and roses. Or you can start your feast with a glass of pastis, served in the traditional French manner comprised of cold water, ice and the apéro.

Above the main counter is a large photograph of oyster farmers working in the Boulogne River in the Loire Valley that the chef fell in love with while travelling in that region. He had it shipped over. Additional art will be installed before opening day.