At one time, people actually dressed up to go out to eat on Coventry Road. These days, it’s all flip-flops and sports jerseys.
With Bodega, Said Ouaddaadaa hoped to reverse the trend, to create a
place where a guy in a tie wouldn’t look like a dork. He transformed a
lower-level space, formerly an art supply store, into a stunning South
Beach-style restaurant and lounge. Going against Cleveland convention,
he crafted a creative menu of Mediterranean small plates. He rounded
out the plan with 150 martinis and 200 wines. And just like that,
people began to dress up again on Coventry.
Despite what we’ve come to expect from a bodega (gritty corner
market peddling 40s), this grotto was designed with a Miami state of
mind. “I love South Beach,” Ouaddaadaa tells me. “I go there all the
time and spend money. I thought, why not bring Miami to Cleveland?”
Set a few steps below street level, the mod space welcomes guests
with a sleek waterfall, spectacular crystal chandelier and gauzy
linens. There are specific zones for dining, sitting bar-side, or
kickin’ it South Beach-style on plush banquettes. A backlit bar fills
the room with a ruby-red glow, a striking contrast to the white drapes,
white tables, white chairs and white-granite bar top.
As appealing as this formula was, there was still room for
improvement. Bodega’s original menu lacked focus, included more than a
few duds, and its execution could be hit or miss. But thanks to a new
chef, new menu and new crew, Bodega clearly is hitting its stride.
Talented young chef Demetrios Atheneos, formerly of Bella Lucca and
Giovanni’s, has reworked the menu, giving it both a renewed clarity and
broader appeal. And because this is Cleveland, after all, he added a
section for entrées.
The menu is divided into categories for tapas (both hot and cold),
short plates (salads, odds and ends) and entrées. Diners are
always griping about tapas, not quite sure where they fit in the
appetizer-entrée-dessert paradigm. Here, they are essentially
large appetizers, with more than enough food for four to sample and
share.
Though big enough to share, I largely enjoyed the crispy chicken
livers ($8) all by myself. The chef dusts the livers in flour and pops
them in the fryer, giving them an addictively crisp shell. He perches
the livers atop creamy polenta, splashes them with a sweet glaze and
tops it all with fried shallots. On the opposite end of the flavor
spectrum, the tuna tartar ($9) is bright and bracingly tropical. Finely
diced sushi-grade tuna is layered above creamy avocado, sweet mango and
pert arugula. A fragrant sesame oil and mild chili sauce add some
depth.
Asian accents appear throughout the menu, like in the case of the
absolutely killer calamari ($8). The meaty rings are coated in a
sesame-seed-studded breading, fried up golden brown and squirted with a
sweet-spicy honey-wasabi aioli. Providing only a slight twist on the
French classic, the chef coats a pair of bone-in lamb chops ($12) with
mustard, herbs and panko before roasting them off. They are nestled
into whipped potatoes and drizzled with a wine reduction.
The “Short Plate” section offers a sort of pit stop between starters
and mains, featuring mostly salads and spreads. There’s a romaine salad
($6) with applewood bacon, grape tomatoes and creamy blue-cheese
dressing. Then there is the wonderful grilled halloumi cheese ($10), a
nod to the chef’s motherland. A thick wedge of the pleasantly salty
Greek cheese is sautéed until warm and deeply caramelized. It is
paired with tapenade and served with warm pita.
Entrées, while tasty, are less exciting than many of the
small plates. For beef eaters, the steak dianne ($31) is a luxurious
treat. Two good-sized tenderloins are seared and sauced with a dark
mushroom-studded wine sauce. Pasta lovers will doubtless enjoy the
shrimp ravioli ($24), which pairs large shrimp with pillowy pockets of
mushroom ravioli in a light cream sauce.
Like the room around it, the plates that hit the table are highly
conceived. As delightful to look at as they are to poke with a fork,
the food is artfully arranged, garnished and plated. Most are crowned
with a generous handful of fancy Chef’s Garden greens. Desserts are
even prettier. It’s obvious the chef takes pride in his work.
Despite all that splendor, I think the restaurant would be wise to
add some more affordable options. Out of two dozen small plates, only
five are priced less than $8. Most of the entrées are north of
$24. As hard as Ouaddaadaa might try to change matters, this is still
Coventry.
This article appears in Apr 8-14, 2009.
