Gabriel’s Southern Table It’s been a challenging two years for Gabriel Zeller’s East 4th Street residency. Zeller and his former partner opened Indie in late 2021, taking over the former Greenhouse Tavern space and turning it into a music-themed eatery that never gained traction. A little over a year later, Zeller pulled the plug on that concept. “We felt that after the first year, people either loved Indie or they just didn’t get it,” Zeller told us at the time. “I think that a different atmosphere and a slightly more elevated menu is what people are looking for on Fourth.” The “different atmosphere” arrived in the form of Gabriel’s Southern Table, which opened last spring. That restaurant quietly closed its doors in January. Credit: Douglas Trattner

We here at Scene have been eagerly following the progress of Indie (2038 E. 4th St.) since last March, when owners Gabriel Zeller and Julie Mesenburg announced that they had signed a lease to take over the high-profile Greenhouse Tavern space on East 4th St. The husband-and-wife team are also behind Char Whisky Bar in Rocky River, Avo Modern Mexican in Ohio City and Lago at Lakeside, a seasonal operation in Marblehead.

Now, some nine months later, the space is nearing completion. To the many diners who have made their way through this iconic space, the changes are dramatic enough to stop one in his or her tracks. And for lovers of independent music, the dining room offers near limitless eye candy in the form of 240 framed concert posters that span the musical spectrum. Thanks to QR codes, guests will be able to dig into the backstory on each of the posters.

The restaurant will seat approximately 100 diners on the main floor and front mezzanine. The rear mezzanine has been closed to dining and will open as a snug spirits lounge a few months down the road. The final piece of the puzzle comes in the form of the rooftop lounge, which will come online in spring.

When Indie opens sometime in December, it will feature a Southern-styled menu starring appetizers like green tomato hush puppies, spoon cornbread and braised and seared pork belly with slaw. Mains include a shrimp Po’ Boy, chicken and waffles, a seafood boil and Hatch chili mac and cheese. Parties of four or more will want to consider the whole fried chicken dinner with all the fixings or the Country Picnic, a platter loaded with cooked and cured meats, cheeses, pickled veggies, nuts, spreads, preserves and breads.

Brunch fans can look forward to a weekly “Grunge brunch” on Saturdays and Sunday brunches with an evolving musical theme.

The cocktails, all created by Mesenburg, will have a musical tie-in as well. Drink names include Hey Jealousy, Bloodbuzz Ohio and Here Comes the Night Time.

Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner
Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner
Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner
Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner
Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner
Indie will open on E. 4th Street in December. Credit: Douglas Trattner

This article appears in Nov 17-30, 2021.

For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.