In an era dominated by restaurant closures, it’s heartening to welcome back not one but two treasured local establishments that left us in recent years. At least, that’s the way it feels to fans of two local icons.
After the owners of Edison’s Pizza Kitchen announced the return of a brick-and-mortar pizzeria, their legion of fans rightfully rejoiced. When that business moved out of its longtime home next door to Edison’s Pub three years ago, it felt like a rip in the fabric of the neighborhood. In terms of harmonious pairings, few could rival the one-two punch of drinks and slices at those two Tremont mainstays.
In similar fashion, the loss of Lava Lounge in the same neighborhood seemed to signal an even more momentous shift in the character of the South Side. After all, without pioneers like Ricardo Sandoval and Jack Anfang, the Tremont nightlife scene might never have blossomed the way it has. When it opened 25 years ago, Lava Lounge marked the birth of cool, giving night owls a place to meet, eat and groove well into the wee hours.
Sandoval could have passed that iconic spot off to anyone, but he held out for the right people. Those people turned out to be Donna Grigonis and Evan Bailey, who had been searching for a new home for Edison’s Pizza. Since the storefront pizzeria closed three years ago, the only place to grab a pie has been at a pair of satellite shops inside Dave’s Market in Ohio City and Lucky’s Market on West 117th. In December, after months of repairs and renovations, the new full-service pizzeria opened for business.
Although it’s not an official moniker, folks already have been calling the new joint “Edison’s at Lava Lounge” – and it’s hard to quibble with that sobriquet. It’s as if Lava and Edison’s had a lovechild. Or, like those Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups commercials of old, if the two entities accidentally collided on the sidewalk and created a blended product. Now, instead of eating a slice standing up, guests can settle in for a cozy meal with chairs, tables, cocktails and appetizers.
Edison’s calls its pizza “Cleveland-style” and we wouldn’t disagree. It’s a class consisting of standards like Geraci’s, Mama Santa’s and Master Pizza, pies that feature a mid-thickness crust with a crisp, buttery bottom, a tangy-sweet sauce, and loads of cheese and toppings. Edison’s ups the genre thanks to a crimped crust, parmesan-dusted rim and signature honey for dipping or drizzling. These are not thin, artsy, effete slices, but rather floppy, drippy and overloaded: drunk pizza, if you will.
Edison’s has always dreamt up flavorful specialty pies. The Hot Bacon Spinach ($24) is a many-layered affair with sauteed spinach, bacon, feta, parm and a “hot bacon drizzle.” Others star Buffalo wing sauce, pineapple and ham, and chicken with ranch dressing. Or just get the pepperoni ($22), a classic with edge-to-edge zesty saucers.
For now, the appetizer roster is concise, consisting of just three items. The oven-baked wings ($11) – “never fried” – are hot, crisp and meaty, arriving pre-tossed in Buffalo, BBQ or garlic-parm. Cheesy garlic bread ($8) is comfort food in the extreme. A split loaf of Italian bread is toasted with garlic butter, heaped with mozz, and broiled until golden and glossy. If you’re getting pizza, the calzone ($14) is likely overkill as it contains a pie’s worth of cheese and toppings tucked inside a large, golden-brown crescent-shaped crust.
Salads are an easy category for improvement when management opts to expand the menu. There’s a basic pizzeria-style chopped salad ($10) comprised of iceberg, garbanzo beans and salami bits. Guests can also design their own bowl from a short list of greens, toppings and dressings.
The dining room is dominated by a large horseshoe bar, a feature that has given the lounge its energy from inception. There, bartenders prepare straightforward but properly done cocktails like a tart and smoky Mezcalito ($13). Wine lovers can celebrate an impressive by-the-glass and bottle program dominated, logically, by Old World reds. Brews from local brands are available both in cans and on draft.
Grigonis and Bailey, who purchased Edison’s Pizza from founders Karl and Beth Nickel after years of partnership, fully grasp the magnitude of the brand’s reputation. As such, they have launched in a steady, thoughtful manner that provides them with a runway for lasting success. After a period of weekend-only service, they will add additional days and hours down the road.
“This doesn’t feel like my pizza shop,” says Grigonis, “it feels like the community’s pizza shop.”
Edison’s Pizza Kitchen
1307 Auburn Ave., Cleveland
216-589-9112
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