Shooters Version 2.0 Is a Waterfront Glow Up

For a group of weather nerds like us, there was no better place to be than the sweeping riverside patio at Shooters in the Flats. We watched flashes of lightning skip across the watery horizon, making an already dramatic setting even more so. As tugs nudged massive freighters down the narrow tributary, the skies darkened, storm clouds approached and staffers moved diners into the dry embrace of the atrium-style dining room, where the views were nearly as good.

For decades, those matchless views alone were enough to lure diners to the West Bank of the Cuyahoga River. After all, Shooters was one of only a handful of actual waterfront restaurants, giving them a near monopoly on all that summertime fun. Who cares if the food was pedestrian, the service indifferent and the cocktails weak and overpriced.

But times have changed and quality waterfront restaurants now line the banks of the crooked river. Inertia no longer was enough to keep Shooters afloat, and the aging complex finally ground to a halt in 2024. Two years and $1 million later, Shooters is back. But while the coordinates and four walls might be the same, everything else has been buffed to a high gloss.

Before the storms rolled in, we paired the maritime views with a round of drinks and snacks. Gone is the rickety wooden boardwalk, replaced by a smooth, level and expansive riverside patio. Guests have their pick of clubby soft-seating spots or traditional tables and chairs. Wide, colorful umbrellas block the heat of the afternoon sun. While everyone around us was knocking back frozen piña coladas, margaritas and espresso slushies, we sampled our way through a good portion of the white wine selection.

Ryan Boone, formerly of Cordelia and Greenhouse Tavern, packs a ton of fun, flavor and whimsy into his well-composed plates and platters. The chef sidesteps cliched “seafood shack” chestnuts in favor of approachable, shareable and multi-layered food with social-media-friendly plating and presentation. It’s an approach that is bound to anger longtime fans, but likely to attract a batch of newer, younger ones.

A large portion of thin and crispy chips ($12) is accompanied by a cool, creamy green onion dip with loads of fresh dill. If bagged chips and tubs of Lawson’s dip went to culinary school, this is the form they would depart in. Boone picked up some super-secret wing tech while working at Greenhouse and his confit wings ($16) have that distinctive dry and crisp but fall-off-the-bone-tender texture. The chef’s sauces and dips – here and throughout the menu – elevate everything they cling to.

“He’s known for his dips,” our server informs.

Just before the raindrops began to fall a trio of sliders ($22) hits the table. If there was a fear of them getting wet, it vanished as quickly as the burgers. Capped with melted cheese, sweet, caramelized onion and secret sauce, we devoured them long before shifting indoors.

It was stunning how a move of just a few yards could so alter the vibe. Whereas the patio was a laidback waterfront hang, the interior felt like it was already well into its night. Groups clustered around cocktails on sofas and banquettes in the dimly lit room. Cheers erupted from the nearby barroom, where the Knicks just notched their third Finals win.

Our server made quick work of moving us, our food and beverages to a new indoor spot. The next round of food found us in a flash, this time a pair of grilled meat kebabs ($17), the juicy chicken slipping easily from the wooden skewers. They are balanced by a bright cucumber and chickpea salad, crunchy pickled veggies and another knockout dip. In the fish and chips ($21), two large flanks of walleye arrive in a thick jacket of breading alongside slaw, charred lemons and the chef’s special sauce. If you’re a fan of crispy beer-battered fish, this version might not be for you.

While striking in its presentation, a broccoli Caesar ($15) – molded into a shaved cheese-covered mound – was a bear to eat owing to florets that are closer to raw than crisp-tender and a butter knife that struggled to provide any assistance.

One of the most heartening consequences of all the recent Flats development is the return of boat traffic to the area. It might be hard to imagine, but “back in the day,” boats would be stacked three, four and even five deep along the docks by Shooters. Steadily, those pleasure craft are returning, encouraged by new docks and docking services, including an on-call dockmaster. If you spend $100 or more on your food and drinks, all docking fees are waived.

Shooters

1148 Main Ave., Cleveland; 216-354-1148; shooterscleveland.com.

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