The past 12 months were filled with exciting debuts, heartwarming comebacks and enjoyable excursions around Northeast Ohio. For me, these were the dishes and experiences that made it a great year of dining around Cleveland.
Beef Wellington at White Oaks, Westlake
I corrected a grievous error this past year by visiting White Oaks, a piece of culinary history in old Westlake. Around since 1928, the restaurant pairs a Prohibition-era vibe with Continental fare. After enjoying gin martinis in the wood-paneled lounge, we settled into a table overlooking a wooded ravine. There, we dined unhurriedly on timeless gems like relish trays, cheese fondue and escargot. The star of the kitchen is the beef Wellington, a puff pastry-wrapped tenderloin coated with mushroom duxelles and served on a pool of rich Bordelaise sauce.
Steak Frites at EDWINS, Cleveland Heights
When Brandon Chrostowski moved EDWINS from Shaker Square to the Nighttown space in Cleveland Heights, he revived the soul and spirit of the local legend. After enduring a four-year roller-coaster ride, the community welcomed the transformation with open arms. While diners can still savor fine-dining, multi-course tasting menus in the main dining room, you’ll find me in the bar enjoying brasserie-style dishes like frog legs, steak tartare and a matchless steak frites: grilled and sliced strip steak with a mountain of crisp fries and a pool of decadent Bearnaise.
Mushroom Tartlets at Kiln, Shaker Heights
Kiln opened its doors in late 2024, but we didn’t really get to know it until earlier this year. Over a few casual but elegant meals, Doug Katz’ latest restaurant began to unfurl like a snow-dappled crocus. The airy popovers with strawberry jam and whipped butter are reason enough to visit, but so too are the mushroom tartlets. Redolent with the aroma of ripe camembert (from local fromager Marchant Manor), the flaky bite-size tarts are further filled with mushrooms, Amish swiss and chives.
Chicken Thigh Yakitori at Kyuu-juu, Ohio City
Yakitori is one of those foods that seems utterly foolproof – grilled chicken on a stick! – yet tends to fail in myriad ways. Which might explain why in all my years on the beat, only a handful of local versions have managed to come close to the ideal. At Kyuu-juu, which opened this summer in Ohio City, partners Ryan Endrian and Chef Kwan present a contemporary izakaya built around vegetables, sushi, seafood, chicken, beef, duck and more. Skewers of juicy, tare-glazed chicken thigh are expertly grilled, garnished with scallion, and served with a side of salt and Japanese pepper.
Smash Burger at Crowley’s Dive Bar (Multiple Locations)
I’ve eaten more smash burgers over the past five years than I have in my entire life. That’s because more places than ever are serving them. Unfortunately, most of the so-called smash burgers on local menus aren’t the real deal. Crowley’s, which went from one to four shops in less than three years, does them right, basket after basket. Here, the patties are smashed on the griddle until the edges flair out to a crispy lace that extends well past the bun. The twin patties are tucked into a toasted potato roll and topped with cheese, sautéed onions, shredded lettuce and special sauce.
Shawarma at Levant, Cleveland
Levant quietly opened its doors in 2024, but it has quickly made a name for itself thanks to Adib Toubya’s wholesome and delicious Middle Eastern fare. Each day, the Syrian-born chef makes two types of shawarma cones from scratch: chicken and beef/lamb. The meat is thinly sliced, seasoned and stacked conically on a vertical spit, where it slowly twirls and cooks. The lightly charred meat is shaved to order and tucked into a large pita with veggies, pickles and sauces. Order your shawarma wrap “Arabic-style” and it arrives in tidy bite-size pieces.
Cuban Platter at Sazón Latino, Cleveland
One of the most delicious surprises of the past year is CentroVilla25, a Latin-themed food hall and marketplace in Clark-Fulton. The Mercado Verde within features eight different food kiosks offering Salvadoran, Venezuelan, Puerto Rican, Dominican and Mexican fare – and it’s all amazing. But what brings me back is Sazón Latino, which offers a large selection of ready-to-eat Cuban fare. Platters of savory beef and potato stew are served with black beans and rice, yuca with garlic, and plantains. Tack on a few crispy empanadas as well.
The Butcher at Village Butcher, Mayfield
Chefs Zach Ladner and Carl Quagliata opened this exceptional butcher shop in 2022, but it took me a few years to make a visit. Coolers are packed with a dizzying selection of premium steaks and chops – including house dry-aged cuts – as well as pork, poultry, sausages and burgers. While home cooks gravitate to those products, sandwich lovers line up for hot and cold subs made with a chef’s level of care and attention. The Butcher, their take on an Italian beef, is a delicious beast loaded with tender braised beef, flavorful jus, sharp cheddar and tangy giardiniera.
The Melt Down at Something Good Social Kitchen, Cleveland
Ricky Smith, the local personality behind Random Acts of Kindness Everywhere (R.A.K.E.), opened Something Good Social Kitchen this spring on the Playhouse Square Plaza. The quick-serve operation is situated in the kiosk that last housed Dynomite Burgers. The bill of fare is concise, with seasonal salads, all-beef hot dogs and burgers. What Smith calls “burgers” are actually chopped-cheese sandwiches – and they’re mega-delicious. The Melt Down is a blend of ground beef, mushrooms, onions, banana peppers and cheese, which all gets chopped and cooked on the griddle, loaded into a soft potato bun and topped with condiments and sauces. The chef’s kiss: the free meal that gets donated for every meal purchased.
Burrito Mojado at La Casa de Luchita’s, Cleveland
I’ll admit that nostalgia is a potent ingredient when it comes to food. Luchita’s, which is now called La Casa de Luchita’s, opened this past summer at Shaker Square, reviving a storied local brand that had been all but erased. The revival of those familiar, comforting Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes is cause for celebration. In addition to staples such as chiles rellenos, tamales, flautas and enchiladas, we welcomed back an old friend: el Burrito Mojado, or Wet Burrito. A tender flour tortilla is stuffed with ground beef and beans and topped with cheese and red or green salsa.
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