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The dictionary defines the word “fracas” as a noisy, disorderly disturbance, but on the night we visited Fracas Restaurant (2781 Euclid Heights Blvd., 216-321-6000, fracascleveland.com), a diner could hear an olive drop. Granted, it was the week between Christmas and New Year’s, but that doesn’t always translate into slow business.

Billed as a gastropub, the locally owned eatery opened in early December in the historic Centrum Theater near Coventry Road. Chef-owner Phil Romano, formerly of Hyde Park and House of Blues, has done a wonderful job freshening up the old main theater space. Old-time paint colors, intricate plaster work, and cool movie-theater lighting give this place a distinctive look. But it’s the sheer volume of the room that stops diners in their tracks — especially after making the trip down the narrow entrance tunnel.

This article appears in Dec 29, 2010 – Jan 4, 2011.

For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.