Who would have thought that provincial Westlake would trump the cultural diversity of Cleveland’s Asiatown? Not even in that bustling ethnic enclave can diners score such a range of culinary treats. From Japanese sushi and Chinese dim sum to Thai beef salad and Vietnamese pho, it’s all available in Crocker Park. More specifically, it’s all available at a single restaurant, Vieng’s Asian Bistro.
Taking the place of the shuttered Claddagh Irish Pub, Vieng’s is a
splashy pan-Asian restaurant dishing up the cuisines — at least
our version of them — of Thailand, China, Korea, Vietnam and
Japan. The restaurant is the newest member of the Timothy Ly family of
restaurants, which includes Thai Gourmet in Stow and Independence, and
Pad Thai in Hudson and Fairlawn.
Akin to an indie version of P.F. Chang’s, Vieng’s elevates the
typically modest ethnic restaurant to an attractive, contemporary
hotspot. Stacked white river rock lines the walls, sleek faux red-paper
lanterns dangle from the ceiling and graceful waterfalls are positioned
throughout the dimly lit interior. But far from a Zen palace of
contemplation, this joint rocks to the beat of kicky house music. A
massive central bar fills the room with the energy of a sports bar
— albeit a sports bar where patrons snack on fried wontons rather
than fried wings.
One side of that sizeable four-sided bar is devoted to an eight-seat
sushi bar. On nights when pagers are handed out faster than tables (a
given on weekends), that sushi bar is a hungry man’s best friend. On a
busy Friday night, we slip past a long line of loiterers and take
immediate refuge in front of the fish fridge. Within moments, the sushi
chef hands over complimentary salads of crab, cucumbers and orange.
Despite being inches from the chef, our fish orders have to go through
a server, but there is little lag in service. We munch on a big bowl of
warm and salty edamame ($5), sip on (too) hot sake for two ($10) and
enjoy a well-prepared roll filled with spicy yellowtail and scallion
($8). You won’t find the largest or most thrilling fish selection here,
but what’s served is fresh and well-priced.
For a more serene dining experience or to fully ponder the
comprehensive menu, it’s wise to wait for a seat in the dining room.
Nearly as long as the Great Wall of China, the menu is jammed with
hundreds of options; many dishes come with a choice of chicken, beef,
pork, tofu, shrimp, squid, duck or veggies. Overwhelming, yes, and the
less-than-straightforward menu categories don’t offer much in the way
of guidance. Rather than group dishes by ethnicity (or protein), they
are broken into vague categories like All Time Favorites, Chef
Specialties and Bistro Specialties. Sprinkled throughout those pages
are Thai curries, Cantonese classics, Vietnamese noodle soups and
contemporary pan-Asian fusion dishes.
A simple stroll down the starter list lands diners in both familiar
and exotic territory. Stacked into a pyramid, six slender and crispy
spring rolls ($6) come with sweet dipping sauce. Far healthier are the
fresh basil rolls ($4), which are plump rice pancakes stuffed with
shrimp, chicken, lettuce and basil. The potstickers ($6) are handmade
and delicious; unfortunately they arrive barely warm. Vieng’s version
of salt and pepper shrimp ($10), where lightly battered shrimp are
stir-fried with garlic and chiles, lacks the fiery appeal of the
original.
Too much coconut milk tempers an otherwise enjoyable chicken in
green curry ($13). The mildly spiced dish features chicken, green
beans, bamboo shoots and peas in a sauce not unlike Thai coconut soup.
To spice up our meals, we rely on liberal doses of sriracha and
Szechuan chile oil.
Vieng’s Korean sizzling steak ($17) is a delightfully effortless
adaptation of the interactive Korean meal bulgogi. A blistering-hot
platter takes the place of the traditional table-top hotplate, searing
all the meat in one smoky blast. What’s left (apart from the splatter)
is lightly charred and surprisingly tender beef in a faintly sweet,
garlicky sauce. This and most dishes come with a covered dish of
steamed rice.
Fried rice fans (guilty!) should absolutely tack on an order of
Vieng’s house version. For just $7, the table is rewarded with a
heaping mound of fluffy chicken, beef, pork or veggie fried rice. More
than likely, it will serve as lunch the following day.
Vieng’s offers an unexpectedly astute selection of white wines by
the glass, including Sofia Rosé ($10) and Chateau Ste. Michelle
Riesling ($8). There are only four sakes on the list, which is a shame.
Mojitos ($9) get an Asian twist, with flavors like ginger-pomegranate
and lime-mangosteen.
This article appears in May 13-19, 2009.
