When you’ve been dining at the same Indian restaurants for 15, 20, even 30 years, you begin to believe that there is only one correct way to do things. But more recent arrivals have introduced local diners to the joys of Mumbai chaat, South Indian thalis and East Indian desserts, with menus that go well beyond the North Indian chestnuts that have predominated the Cleveland culinary scene for decades.
“There wasn’t such a big Indian crowd back in the `80s and `90s like we have now, so a lot of the flavors they have stuck to have been more Americanized,” explains Rahul Gonuguntla. “The whole reason of starting a restaurant was my love of food. We wanted to give something more authentic.”
In 2017, Gonuguntla opened Paradise Biryani Pointe in Mayfield. If the name sounds familiar, it’s likely because it’s affiliated with the largest Indian restaurant chain in the U.S. Launched in New Jersey by a friend of Gonuguntla, the chain has expanded to roughly 50 locations in a dozen states. It’s a connection in name alone, however, the owner admits.
“We’re technically a franchise of Paradise Biryani Pointe,” explains Gonuguntla. “In 2017, we did not have that brand value and we needed something to kick it off, and Paradise, we thought, was a very good way to do it. But now, in Cleveland, we have made a brand for ourselves.”
Cleveland’s Indian population is soaring, reports Gonuguntla, and many of those newcomers swear by Paradise Biryani. The popularity and reputation of the Mayfield store inspired the owner to open a second location in Parma. When Covid arrived, the shops experienced a dramatic rise in take-out business, keeping them aloft throughout the pandemic.
Earlier this year, Gonuguntla opened what I would call his flagship eatery. Located in a shopping plaza just north of Aurora, the restaurant is contemporary, attractive and spacious, with white marble tabletops, royal blue booths and an artistic cluster of pendant lights. On a recent Saturday night, every seat was claimed and delivery drivers came and went like clockwork.
We sipped gin and tonics ($11), snacked on light and greaseless papadam and plotted a course. First to arrive was the paneer 65 ($14.99), fire engine-red cheese cubes with thrumming heat. Instead of that Anglo-Indian staple tikka masala, the owner nudges diners to the Mughlai chicken ($14.99), a warmly spiced stew enriched with cream and studded with chopped hard-boiled eggs. The dish comes with rice but it would be a shame to not pair it with Paradise’s exceptional naan ($4.49) or roti ($3.99). Dosas ($11.99) here are two-feet wide, paper-thin and shatteringly crisp.
The showstopper of the meal was the Hyderabad-style goat biryani ($18.99), an aromatic, comforting and celebratory dish. The extra-long-grain basmati was perfectly steamed, seasoned and blended with tender bone-in goat. Balanced spice permeates the dish, with layers and layers of compelling flavors. It is served with raita and onion gravy.
The Mayfield shop is smaller but perfect for a delicious weekday lunch or dinner. It was there that I tried my first cut mirchi ($12.99), crunchy fritters stuffed with chili peppers and served with blazing-hot green chutney. These might be the best bar snacks going. For something tamer but equally appealing, the dal makhani ($12.99) is a mix of black lentils and kidney beans in a rich, mellow gravy. On the side was an order of onion kulcha ($4.49), another selection from Paradise’s first-rate flatbread roster.
Gonuguntla, who hails from Southern Indian, says that he has a personal fondness for that cuisine, but his restaurants offer a much broader collection of dishes.
“I come from a place called Hyderabad, which is very famous for its biryani,” he explains. “Hyderabad is very different from every other South Indian region because of the Nizams ruling for a long time. We have a lot of flavors that are a mix of South, the North and the Middle East. But we pretty much offer a combination of everything.”
With three successful restaurants in his portfolio, one might think that Gonuguntla will take a pause from new ventures, but the self-described risktaker squeezed in his second opening of 2023. Dubbed Paradise Biryani Pointe Express, the carry-out-only restaurant is located inside the Carnegie Food Hub, a collection of ghost kitchens. The owner describes the move as a fact-finding mission to see if there’s demand for a restaurant in the city center.
“Depending on how things go, we might pick up a location downtown,” he states.
Paradise Biryani Pointe
Multiple locations
paradiseindiancuisine.us
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