Poppy is a Big Test for the Salt Team. They’re Passing With High Marks So Far

As a diehard eastsider, I was thrilled to learn that Jill Vedaa and Jessica Parkison would be taking over operations at Felice after the owners of that eatery decided to move on. I was giddy because it shortened by three-quarters the journey required for me to enjoy Vedaa’s food; because it meant that the Felice story, which began 15 years earlier, would live on in some fashion; and because I knew that having the Salt team on this side of the river would induce legions of west-siders to experience the quirky charms of Larchmere Boulevard.

Over the years, I’ve watched the three-level Craftsman-style house and adjoining property evolve since Margaret Mueller first opened the doors in 2008. This year was no different, with the new owners making minor and major changes to the 115-year-old building. Chief among them was the transformation of the second-floor barroom into a proper full-service dining room. In exchange, the main floor service bar was brought back into the fold as a spiffy four-seat cocktail bar.

To my eye, the restaurant has never looked sharper. Guests enter the enclosed front porch, which is divided into a boho-chic waiting area and small dining room. Once inside, the warm hug of mahogany takes over thanks to a handsome hearth, original wood flooring and exposed-beam ceiling. Upstairs is a blend of old and new, with sturdy wood tables and chairs softened by plush banquettes. Up here, it’s lighter, brighter and louder.

In Spain, gin and tonics are called “gin tonics” and they are served in beefy stemmed goblets loaded with great gin, quality tonic and intricate garnishes. Poppy’s version ($15) would be right at home in Barcelona thanks to juniper-forward Spanish gin, elderflower tonic, a splash of sherry and spray of fresh herbs. In the visually stunning I’m Melting ($15), a blend of premium tequila, rum and fruit juice is poured at the table through a strainer made of ice.

If you’ve dined at Salt in Lakewood, you’ve witnessed Vedaa’s uncanny knack for composing small plates that possess a near flawless harmony of flavors and textures. From a seemingly bottomless well of inspiration, she conjures novel menus four times per year. On this side of town, the chef is aiming for a little more consistency, with some dishes making the transition to the next season. And where Salt is a “small-plate restaurant,” Poppy presents dishes that are closer in construction to appetizers, salads and main courses.

A staple at both restaurants, the chunky white bean puree ($13) gets a flavor boost from chopped green olives and smoky spices. It is served with plenty of grilled bread. The first dish to disappear, though, was the summery smashed cucumbers ($14), served on a bed of fluffy whipped feta and topped with pine nuts and torn mint. The kitchen prepares the palest, most delicate fried calamari ($13), which gets a tropical twist thanks to a light coconut glaze and bump of heat.

Working one’s way down the columns – Vegetables, Fish, Meat – results in increasingly larger plates like ricotta dumplings ($21), fried chicken livers ($13), and lamb meatballs ($16). For a vegetarian appetizer, the dumplings are remarkably savory and filling thanks to good caramelization and meaty mushrooms, all cut with a vibrant herb pesto. Punchy, “poppy” mustard seeds complement a handful of crispy-fried chicken livers, in this case set against a bright salad of pickled onion and parsley leaves. If we had one do-over, it would have been the lamb meatballs. They had zero sear, arrived dense as diamonds and the pineapple slaw contained more than a few bits of unappetizing core.

A many-layered potato cake somehow manages to outshine the beautiful filet of arctic char ($26) above it, both of which are joined by grilled broccolini. Perhaps rushed from the skillet a few seconds too early, a trio of seared scallops ($22) and braised baby bok choy are presented in a deep bowl with grits and umami-rich ponzu sauce. In a slightly uneven entrée, bone-in duck leg ($28) is served fried chicken-style with tangy gravy, mashed sweet potatoes and chilly celery root slaw.

Three months in, Poppy has debuted a new menu, a 140-seat patio and carriage-house bar, and Sunday brunch. It will be the biggest test yet for the Beard-nominated chef and her business partner. Taking some pressure off the small restaurant kitchen is an outdoor pizza oven and grill, from which flow creative flatbreads, grilled vegetables, fish and meat dishes, and other seasonal surprises. If the service we experienced during our visit is any indication, the Poppy team will continue to draw crowds, raves and new fans.

Poppy
12502 Larchmere Blvd., Cleveland
216-415-5069
poppycleveland.com

Subscribe to Cleveland Scene newsletters.

Follow us: Apple News | Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Or sign up for our RSS Feed

This article appears in May 31 – Jun 13, 2023.