Review: At Kiln in Shaker Heights, a Doug Katz Bistro Built for All

Kiln, now open at Van Aken in Shaker Heights Credit: Courtesy Photo

A few short years ago, Doug Katz could count his employees on a single hand. With Fire Food and Drink in the rear-view mirror, the chef’s once-thriving catering operation cut off at the knees, and Zhug closed to dine-in service mere months after opening, Katz was compelled to slash his culinary operation to just a skeleton crew.

These days, the fastidious chef divides his time between three bustling restaurants while overseeing a staff the size of a small corporation. Along with business partner Todd Thompson, Katz runs the perennially packed Amba in Ohio City, the uber-cool Zhug in Cleveland Heights, and Kiln in Shaker Heights, perhaps the most anticipated new restaurant in years.

The secret to Katz’s success is no secret at all: When you combine great food, great hospitality, great design and great energy, customers will beat a path to your banquettes. After three short-lived restaurants came and went from that address, Katz and his team spent the better part of a year completely reimagining the marquee property at Van Aken District. What came out on the other end is a cozy cure for all those still pining for Fire.

For the Katz fans who sidestep Amba and Zhug because of the food, vibe, location, lack of reservations or whatever, Kiln offers safe harbor – a place where the parking is plentiful, the food familiar and the ability to make a reservation intact (albeit far from guaranteed). What Kiln does share with those other establishments is structure and process. Guests are handed a sheet of paper that is less of a menu and more an inventory of dishes, some small, others large, all built to be shared.

With two dozen different items, there are myriad ways to proceed. Servers can offer pairing-strategy tips while the kitchen oversees the pacing of the meal. A natural place to start might be the crudité ($18), a deep bowl of silky hummus garnished with a bouquet of seasonal veggies. Kiln’s version of the classic oeufs mayonnaise ($10) sets gently boiled eggs on a pool of green goddess dressing and caps them with cloud-like mayo. If there’s a can’t-miss starter in the bunch, it’s the mushroom tartlets ($15), flaky pastry shells filled with mushrooms, gruyere and buttery camembert.

Salads range from a simple spinach ($17) with mushroom and smoky tomato dressing to a bracing medley of chilled, poached calamari ($25) and bitter greens in a bright vinaigrette. Fire fans will be happy to see an old friend in the crispy chicken livers ($18), here served with a vivid cherry compote.

Katz’s own recommendation is to pair the airy popovers ($8) with a meaty main like the ribeye steak tips ($37) – and twice we tried. But on both occasions the poofy treats arrived almost immediately, alongside the accompanying strawberry jam and whipped butter. Those beef tips in Burgundy jus, and the juicy, mahogany-skinned chicken ($33) with butter bean ragout, land on the table in shareable form, i.e. carved into segments. Fans of either salmon or trout will adore the pink-fleshed arctic char ($29) with crispy skin, served atop beurre blanc and capped with a shaved fennel salad.

As far as indulgent starchy sides go, Kiln offers a windfall. Every party should save space on the table for the Parisienne potatoes ($12), bite-size fried potatoes with garlic and parsley. A rung up lands you at the velvety scalloped potatoes ($18) layered with aromatic taleggio. Or go all out with the plush and pillowy ricotta dumplings ($19) in pesto cream sauce.

Meshing beautifully with the American bistro theme are wines that lean crisp, natural and local. There are plenty of gems from the Napa, Willamette and Loire valleys, but the list also showcases plenty from our own Grand River Valley. Bottles such as M Cellars rkatsiteli, Kosicek riesling and Silver Crest dornfelder all demand attention.

If you made it to Sawyer’s, Kindred Spirit or Shake It, the interior will be a jaw-dropping surprise. Entrances were relocated, stairs were shifted, and every inch of the property was reconsidered – all with the aim of creating a drama-filled room that brings diners together. Ringed by banquettes, the main space thrums with warmth, elegance and conviviality. For those in search of a bit less verve, a second-level bar and dining room offers freedom from the fray.

Also upstairs is a spacious rooftop patio that overlooks the entire district. That and a main-level patio will open to diners next spring, which should help reduce those pesky waits for a table. Wait or no wait, Kiln already has claimed the title of hottest bistro in town.

Kiln
3386 Tuttle Rd., Shaker Hts.
216-630-7806
kilncle.com

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