“I feel like this is exactly what the space wanted to be all along,” says my wife, moments after easing onto her barstool at The Reserve in Chagrin Falls.
For 15 years, this address had been home to Umami, a 28-seat Asian-inspired bistro that made the most of its 800-square-foot domain. Or so we thought. After closing, then reopening, then closing the restaurant for good during and following the pandemic, owners Nikki Williams and Mike Mendlovic commenced six months of interior renovations. More than a simple makeover, the changes have redefined the interaction between diner and restaurant.
Warmly lit, slim as a diner car, and now, for the first time ever, sporting a bar, The Reserve reminds me of those snug West Village wine bars that couples slip into when they get shut out of the red-hot bistro down the block. Like those perennially booked bistros in New York, Umami often was booked up days or weeks in advance. Now, thanks to the 10-seat black walnut bar, diners can nip in for a drink and a bite on a whim.
Despite the same occupancy, the dining room somehow feels more spacious. Roomy booths, which can be reserved in advance, accommodate groups of five or six. A new brick archway offers a bit of separation between front and back of the house while tying into the exposed brick walls. That aged brick wall now forms a handsome backdrop for the bar, which has been beefed up in terms of spirits and cocktails.
We started with the gin-based Bitsy 75 ($17), a floral riff on the fizzy French 75 thanks to the addition of lavender elixir. Williams, a permanent fixture since the doors opened, glides from host duties to canny sommelier, guiding us through the tightly curated list of wines.
To complement the breezy wine bar vibe, chef Gregg Gale has gone all in on small plates. Umami always excelled in that arena, with items like sashimi, sushi rolls, steamed mussels and vegetable-based salads neatly fitting the bill. The legacy entrees that did survive – dishes like salmon with crispy sushi rice, Massaman curried chicken, and Asian-spiced noodle bowls – have been trimmed down. Now those items are called “small-plate entrees,” tongue firmly in cheek. While the size of most dishes has diminished, the number of menu options has increased.
In true tapas style, diners are encouraged to order at will. We paired glasses of crisp Greek rose ($12) with some fresh, buttery, raw fish. The daily sashimi ($33) is a colorful trio of tuna, salmon and yellowtail slices served with soy, ponzu, wasabi and pickled onion. Sticking with the raw theme, we progressed to steak tartare ($21), a mound of course-chopped but tender beef. An aioli starring smoked oyster, which gets smeared across the crostini, adds a welcome dose of umami.
The menu has a nice selection of vegetable-based soups, salads and sides. Brussels sprouts ($13) are predictably sweet, but also pleasantly spicy. In the Indian pakoras ($11), crispy fried cauliflower and onions are paired with a bright and cool cilantro-laced yogurt sauce.
Buoyed by a seductive Bordeaux-style wine from South Africa ($14), we ventured on with a fun, snacky platter of duck confit nachos ($19). The neatly composed dish featured layers of rich, sweet, shredded duck, melted pepperjack, and lightly fried house-made tortilla chips. A drizzle of citrusy crema added a bright finish. Given its indulgent richness, pork belly is a dish best served small. Here ($20) it is braised in beer until tender, perched atop a thin, crisp-edged polenta cake and sauced with a silky, savory vegetable-based coulis.
We capped off the long and lazy meal – one punctuated by impromptu conversations with other barflies – with a lush crème brulee ($10) beneath a glassy burnt-sugar cap. Like many of the dishes that exit the kitchen, it is familiar and appealing, but with a subtle twist, here thanks to a hint of smoky bourbon.
These most recent improvements are the latest chapter for this “jewel box of a bistro” in Chagrin Falls, one that saw the opening chef depart in under a year, watched its stock soar under the direction of chef Matthew Anderson, and settled into a glorious groove with the current team. Last year, Williams and Mendlovic purchased the restaurant from the original, silent owner, a move that all but guarantees a productive future.
“If this was a reality TV show, I would have won,” Williams jokes. “I am the survivor.”
The Reserve
42 North Main St, Chagrin Falls, 440-318-1492, thereservechagrin.com
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