Sweet Pork Wilson’s is Carving Out a Slice for Itself in Cleveland’s Crowded BBQ Scene

Ribs at Sweet Pork Wilson’s Credit: Photo by Doug Trattner

Done right, Texas-style beef brisket is a deliriously indulgent affair. Cooked low and slow over wood, sliced to order, and served warm, juicy and fragrant, the long-smoked meat is the pinnacle of real barbecue. Done wrong, the meat is dry, stringy, tough and regrettable given the hefty price tag.

Brisket is notoriously challenging to get right, as evidenced by two recent plates dished up at the same restaurant. On my first visit to Sweet Pork Wilson’s on the Lakewood-Cleveland border, my brisket dinner was worth every bit of its $35 price tag. The beef arrived with a deep, dark crust – or bark – and smelled of gentle smoke and assertive spice. The slices were tender enough to drape over an outstretched finger, and they literally almost melted in the mouth.

A second visit netted completely opposite results. One glance revealed slices dark with age, typically a sign the brisket had been refrigerated and reheated. The beautiful bark had turned to mush, the meat was dry, stiff and chewy, and I regretted forking over every single cent of that $35.

Inconsistency aside, Sweet Pork Wilson’s can be an endearing little roadhouse. St. Ignatius grad Jason Brooks opened the lively bar and restaurant last summer in the former Highland Tavern at the corner of Madison and 117th St. When he wasn’t playing collegiate football, Brooks was hosting massive tailgating events that instilled in him a deep-seated love of barbecue and entertaining crowds.

Sweet Pork Wilson’s is equal parts bar and restaurant, featuring that familiar split between barroom and dining room. That lengthy bar has become a popular haunt for locals, especially during happy hour. We sipped on habanero lime margaritas ($5) and ice-cold Dortmunders ($6) while deciding where in the restaurant we would eat the rest of our meal. Snack plates like smoked wings ($5) and pulled pork sliders ($4) arrived hot and fast. The plump sliders were piled high with moist, flavorful meat. The jumbo wings were nicely smoked, crispy and meaty, but definitely on the chewy side.

On Wednesdays, apparently, there’s live music in the dining room, a feature that pushed pretty much every single diner in the joint into the bar side. Even across the restaurant it was difficult to communicate with the bartenders, who were upbeat, friendly and accommodating. It’s not that the band was bad, it’s that they were bad for the room.

In addition to the “good” brisket platter we enjoyed a half slab of exceptional ribs, cut into single bones for easy enjoyment. After even just those few items – sliders, wings, ribs – it was clear that the kitchen had a heavy hand when it came to applying sauce. Happily, the bartender asked our preference when ordering the brisket (none, thanks). Platters come with a choice of sides, with the tender baked beans and the smashed redskin potatoes both great choices.

That follow-up visit wasn’t a total loss. In addition to the “bad” brisket, we enjoyed a hearty platter of smoked chicken ($22), nicely smoked thighs that are chopped into large chunks and tossed in that house sauce. This time around we went with a mild-flavored mac and cheese and crispy steak fries for our sides.

If you are looking for a great Polish Boy ($12) – that heavenly stack of smoky sausage, creamy slaw, BBQ sauce and fries – you would be wise to head to Sweet Pork Wilson’s. Ours was well-built, sturdy and utterly delicious, rising above many others thanks to crispy – not soggy, as usual – fries. In this application, that slightly thick, slightly sweet, slightly smoky sauce happens to be the “secret sauce” behind this home-grown creation. For two bucks more, you can order a Polish Girl, which adds a layer of pulled pork to the fun.

Before creating Sweet Pork Wilson’s, Brooks came up with his own personal brew, which he now bottles and sells at the restaurant. The owner says the multi-dimensional barbecue sauce is an apt representation for the food and city that he loves.

“Cleveland is diverse – it’s everything – and it’s who I am,” he says. “That’s what barbecue should be: it should be a reflection of who you are. I’m not trying to copy anybody. I call our sauce ‘America’s Sauce’ because Cleveland is everywhere and we have everything. It’s what I ate growing up.”

Sweet Pork Wilson’s
11634 Madison Ave., Cleveland
216-938-5673
sweetporkwilsons.com

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