
When your place of business is nearly 120 years old, the tweaks, updates and critical improvements never stop coming. That’s the case at the wildly popular Rowley Inn (1104 Rowley Ave., 216-795-5345), a Tremont staple since 1906.
In August, owners Jon Oberman and Raphael Rivilla had hit a wall with respect to their kitchen situation and made the decision to temporarily shutter the bar to facilitate a major upgrade. An addition was built to accommodate a brand new kitchen, which will improve nearly every aspect of the operation, says Oberman.
“Our kitchen was the size of a shoebox – it’s a miracle what the cooks were able to do in that tiny, little space,” he says. “We needed to expand. We’re too busy for that little shoebox anymore.”
The crew originally hoped to reopen in mid-November, but as with most construction projects, there were delays, including getting final inspections completed.
But all that is finally done and Rowley swings the doors back open today.
Guests can look forward to “quicker, more efficient service” and a refreshed menu to boot.
Oberman and chef Mark Gallon took advantage of the downtime by revising the menu of “Cleveland-style comfort foods.” Many of the most popular dishes remain, some under-performing items were jettisoned, and a host of creative plates have been added. Dishes that previously ran as well-received specials were promoted to regular status.
Additions include queso fundido, crabcakes, and a bowl of beef, bean and kielbasa chili. Poblano peppers are stuffed with brisket burnt ends, green chilis and cheese, served atop cheesy grits and topped with ranchero sauce. Haluski, which went from utility player to starter, is a toss of egg noodles, cabbage, kraut and kielbasa.
Saturday and Sunday brunches, which Oberman says are the busiest shifts of the week, now offer items like strip steak and eggs, ranchero-smothered breakfast burritos, and a quesadilla stuffed with scrambled eggs, bacon and cheese.
While it wasn’t a primary objective, the bar did end up gaining a handful of seats when the dust settled.
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This article appears in Nov 22 – Dec 5, 2023.
