As any chef will tell you, a great dining experience is almost always built from great ingredients.
Maybe that’s what puzzles us about Wine Bar Rocky River, a popular West Side hangout that opened last September and boasts a lengthy wine list, tempting menu, and kitchen hours that stretch from lunch to late night, daily. From savvy owners and a well-seasoned chef to a handsome patio and a snug interior, all the “great ingredients” are there. But toss them together, and somehow, the place just doesn’t pop.
Which is not to say the wine bar lacks charm. Thanks to a secluded setting, cozy fireplace, and soft lighting, it’s sort of the architectural equivalent of a pair of flannel pj’s: warm, cozy, and inviting. The vibe is free from even a whiff of formality, with flat-screen TVs, T-shirted servers, and a noisy, laid-back clientele.
For this, thank owners John Owen and Dave Rudiger. No strangers to the local food scene, they own the Warehouse District’s Dive Bar and Blind Pig Speakeasy, The Ironwood Café in Westlake, and the South Side in Tremont, where they also partner with Rocco Whalen on the trendy Fahrenheit.
While Owen will tell you that Wine Bar is a bar, not a restaurant, that’s a hard posture to maintain when you bring on board a chef of Jill Vedaa’s stature. A Cleveland vet, Vedaa’s résumé includes gigs in some of the city’s top kitchens — Flying Fig, Moxie, Lola, and the former Mise among them.
She obviously takes her kitchen duties seriously, overseeing a lengthy menu that travels far beyond the standard cheese and crackers into the realm of salads, sandwiches, entrées, and savory-sounding apps, in styles that often borrow from Asian and Southwestern pantries — surprising, actually, since both are notoriously tricky to match with wines.
Yet somehow, what comes out of Vedaa’s kitchen tends to be remarkably dull. That includes small, chewy rings of fried calamari in a limp white-cornmeal breading; ho-hum pot stickers filled with slightly dry chicken; a bready “fat bread” pizza, scantily topped with cheddar, sliced scallions, and bits of bland barbecued chicken; and perhaps most disappointing, a dull entrée of sliced pork tenderloin and tender, but somehow flavorless, baked beans.
Not everything falls flat, of course. Among the better options: Avocado and brie lent an inventive spin to the ubiquitous bruschetta, although the accompanying hit of garlic could put a crimp on tête-à-têting. We also enjoyed the turkey-breast wrap, enlivened with brie, julienned apple, spinach, and honey Dijon dressing; we just wish the house-roasted bird had been thinly sliced, not hacked into dryish hunks. (Vedaa’s kitchen, it turns out, doesn’t have room for a meat slicer; this also explains the odd slabs of spicy coppa, sliced thick as honey-baked ham, on the lackluster cheese plate.)
From those delights, though, it was back to Yawnsville, with a plump Black Angus burger that, despite its good looks, tasted almost entirely unseasoned. Only the side of “wino fries” — limp, lightly salted, and just slightly greasy — managed to hold our attention. We went the burger route again on a second visit, this time in the form of four little sliders, topped with a choice of cheddar or blue cheese, and garnished with a homemade pickle. Not bad, but still far from a rousing repository of juicy, beefy goodness.
In fact, besides the wino fries, the only dish that truly moved us was dessert: the tongue-in-cheek Elvis, a trio of miniature peanut butter, chocolate, and banana crème brûlées, each cool and silken beneath a frangible burnt-sugar crust.
As for the wine, we suspect that true connoisseurs may wish for more, not less, “pretension” — possibly in the form of more elegant stemware, a wider range of price points, more wine flights, and more informed and interested servers, inclined to chat about the finer points of what they’re pouring.
Don’t expect much guidance from the West Coast-leaning wine list either. While GM Chris Hammer took the time to group the 100-plus bottles beneath such whimsical headings as “sensitive,” “dramatic,” and “soft curves,” he overlooked the more helpful tasting notes and pairing suggestions.
The service, too, could be more helpful. We accidentally doused our already-limp calamari with a glass of worth-crying-over Klinker Brick “Old Vines” Zinfandel — plush, full-bodied, and at $29 a bottle, one of the less expensive offerings — without anyone noticing or coming to our assistance.
As a result, our visits left us unimpressed. Despite the tools at its disposal, Wine Bar Rocky River seems interested in being neither a “serious” wine bar nor a notable restaurant. Instead, it’s just another (albeit upscale) neighborhood tavern: simple, uncomplicated, and nearly as generic as its name.
Maybe that’s the way the owners want it; maybe that’s what the clientele demands.
Still, it seems like a waste of great ingredients.
This article appears in Jan 30 – Feb 5, 2008.
I completely disagree with Elaine. I have been there a number of times and have great service, great food and great spirits. I love going there and when i do i consider it a treat!!
it’s a wine BAR….if you’re looking for “elegant stemware” perhaps you should go to an upscale restaurant (hint…Table 45, Lola).
as for Wine Flights…perhaps you missed the advertisement of the weekly Wed night Flight Schools, where you not only get a great selection of wines paired with food, but also some insight to the wines.
D’Vine also has several “whimsical” names for both their flights offered and bottles – without giving any suggested pairings – nor do you find these on menus at Parallex, Farenheit, etc….
….i have been to RR Wine Bar on several occasions and have found the food to be very good, the servers quite friendly and helpful when asking about wine and/or food. And i am quite happy to see a wine list that offers a good variety for around 20-25% over retail.
i am in a buisness that also deals with the restaurant world.
i spend 6 days a week and probably about 60 hours dealing with chefs , restaurant
owners, gm’s and waitstaff
first of all, i think that you should always write about the positive things in our resaturants instead of the trivial negative things .our restaurants in cleveland sure could use it.
as a general consumer ,as most of us are , i think that the guys at the wine bar know exactly what they are doing. never had a bad meal, bad service , bad wine or anything else bad or boring.
just wondering how many of us general consumers really take to heart what we read in the scene magazine when the whole back of this paper is dedicated to some big time smut
which most consumers might find offensive.
try some positive things about our boys
after all they are kicking #@***
To whom it may concern,
Who ever wrote this article needs to go back to school on how to present a restaurant/wine bar that has nothing but class, the best wine list I have seen in a long time, and food that fits the atmosphere-fun, exciting, great customer service, vibrant, a place that everyone knows your name. This article was a waste of space to you, Scene Magazine, that I thought had a great reputation here in Cleveland. Send the little girl back to school, let her wright about the comic section, or if you ever get into cartoons let her right about that. When it comes to restaurants, leave it to the grownups that can respect a great place.
I am blown away by this review… I have been to Wine Bar RR over a dozen times, and could not disagree more with the comments made by Circora. One may wonder what sort of person who has any experience or passion for wine would actually request an added dose of pretension? Year have been spent by true wine lovers trying to make wine more appealing & accessible to us unpretensious “everyday” people.
As someone who has spent time travelling wineries across the world, I am nothing but impressed by the amazingly comfortable atmosphere provided at WBRR…and extremely disappointed with the unwarrented negativity of Cicora. Wine Bar achieves exactly what the westside of Cleveland has been screaming for… a great place to to enjoy great food & an unbelievable selection of wines – in an atmosphere that even a connoiseur will appreciate!
I have been to Wine Bar numerous times since it’s opening last September and have yet to be disappointed. I have recommended WB to friends all over Cleveland and continue to return there for the wine, food and great company that are a sure thing!
I completely disagree with Elaine. Are you serious? Where you even at the right place? Wine Bar RR is a great addition to Rocky River. I have been there on sveral occasions and have never had a bad experience. Since their opening in September they have changed their menu, updated the wine list, and offer a wonderful environment both inside and outside. I would recommend that Elaine go back with completely different expectations. Wine Bar is an innovative location that is great for bringing people together to enjoy a great glass of wine and great food. Is Elaine out to attack someone at Wine Bar RR? Seems that way!
I couldn’t disagree more with the review of RRWB. I think the bar has an amazing atmostphere and appeal for those patrons looking for a cozy evening with friends but not looking for a stuffy crowd or $$$ prices. I feel Cicora completely missed the boat on the idea of the wine “bar”. I am sure the establishment will continue to thrive, especially this summer on the “handsome” patio!
I have been to Wine Bar RR 3 times now since its opening and have had 3 of the best dining experiences ever. The patio on a brisk fall evening with the tableside heater could not have been any more pleasant. The food was to die for (I’ve had the Roasted Chicken with red pepper pasta, asparagus and Asiago cream 2 out of the 3 times) which was a pleasant surprise considering the fact that we were going for a wonderful glass of wine. I could not disagree any more with this article and have heard nothing but positive things about the Wine Bar ever since its opening. When I go to the hair salon, gym, or even the dry cleaners its the talk of the town! You missed the mark on this write-up Elaine.
I couldn’t disagree more with your review of Wine Bar of Rocky River. I regularly dine and drink at this establishment and simply love all it has to offer. I find the chef, Jill Vedaa’s, food creative and delicious. I love the variety of smaller plates and the price points. I also find the wine offering to be a wonderful change from the stuffy, over priced lists of some downtown establishments.Also, I find when I go there that I see so many of the same people over and over. I have to ask you…if the food is so bland and the wine list is so ho-hum, then why so many repeat customer????? I think you owe this bar a second look!
In a city full of Bud chuggin’ dives and taverns it’s nice to have an option like the wine bar. As the name states, it’s in Rocky River, Ohio, so I don’t expect the French Laundry. It’s lack of pretense is part of the charm of the wine bar. I’ve been several times since they opened, and have left happy every time. As for this review, who cares for the opinions of a “critic” who can’t keep their wine out of their calamari? Maybe that’s why they don’t have nicer stemware.
It is funny to read this unwarranted slam of Wine Bar Rocky River. I am a frequent customer of the establishment and find it to be the best thing going on the west side right now. Not only is the atmosphere somewhat unique with lots of character, the staff courteous and energetic AND the food is outstanding. I have eaten their often and tasted a majority of the menu and I have only good things to say. The wine list may be heavy on California but for good reason, with its wine tying directly to the spice and flair of the chef’s cuisine. Elaine Cicora is obviously not hip enough to enjoy a new, vibrant experience on Cleveland’s west side. Check it out.
Bert
Scene Magazine…Shame on You! Growing up in Cleveland and now living in Chicago, I have come to rely on your unparalleled dish on all that is “New” and “Hip” within Cleveland. This is not the first time I have read a review by Cicora that has been both biased and TOTALLY off the mark. Having been in Cleveland for the Christmas holiday and spending a great deal of time at this new “hot spot”, I feel compelled to write. This is not only a place you feel good going too, this is also a place you recommend to friends and family and a place you return to time and again… a true complement! One thing I have come to learn about the restaurant/bar/hospitality industry in Cleveland, is that people talk and in this case “write” to remind each other, that professionals like Cicora may very well be paid to write reviews, but we have no obligations to listen to them 😉 Keep it up WBRR, looking forward to a summer night on the patio!
Scene Magazine…Shame on You! Growing up in Cleveland and now living in Chicago, I have come to rely on your unparalleled dish on all that is “New” and “Hip” within Cleveland. This is not the first time I have read a review by Cicora that has been both biased and TOTALLY off the mark. Having been in Cleveland for the Christmas holiday and spending a great deal of time at this new “hot spot”, I feel compelled to write. This is not only a place you feel good going too, this is also a place you recommend to friends and family and a place you return to time and again… a true complement! One thing I have come to learn about the restaurant/bar/hospitality industry in Cleveland, is that people talk and in this case “write” to remind each other, that professionals like Cicora may very well be paid to write reviews, but we have no obligations to listen to them 😉 Keep it up WBRR, looking forward to a summer night on the patio!
I’ve been reading Cicora’s reviews in the Scene for years and while I don’t always agree with her, I never doubt her fairness and sincerity. If she had a bad experience at WRWB, then thats the way it was. Maybe the othher writers had a different, better experience, but as anyone hwo goes out a lot will tell you, even the best spots can have bad ngithts. Ease up. If you like the place, no one is saying you can’t go. But to make it sound like Cicora has it out for them, or doesn’t know what she’s talking about,is just too much. Get a life.
I would like to completely disagree with Cicora. I have enjoyed every experience at WBRR and have recommended it to many of my friends not from the West side. I am in love with the bruschetta that Elaine was bashing, as well as the turkey wrap (I thought the “hunks” of turkey were excellent compared to the ordinary thin sliced turkey wraps that I’ve ordered in the past). The bartenders are personable, the patio is quaint and charming, as well as the crowd of individuals who are sick of the downtown scene. Not to mention, the wine is delicious. I can’t wait to go in the summer and spend a fabulous night out with friends!!!
I visited once for lunch last summer. A nice looking place, but at 11:30 the staff seemed somewhat put off to have to start the work day. I had a tuna sandwich. A very nice piece of rare tuna on a bun 3 times its size with no condiments whatsoever. The overall effect was dry as a bone and relatively tasteless. Sure looked nice, though.
I frequently read Cicora’s reviews and have been to the Wine Bar RR myself. And I have to agree that my experiences there have been less than exciting. Cicora has been writing food reviews for years and has always been fair as far as I can tell. She never attacks WBRR and instead weighs the goood and the bad. She certainly knows what she’s talking about. Maybe you’ve had a different experience there, in which case, feel free to recommend it. However, she didn’t and any restaurant should strive for consistency. She’s also a CRITIC, not a promotional tool for WBRR. It’s not her job to make them look good. It’s her job to offer objective opinions.
I completely agree. I’ve been there twice. While the menu “sounds” fantastic when you actually eat the food it really isn’t that good. And you were being kind with the fries…they’re totally greasy and tasteless and as far as the what you dip them in, it just tastes like regular old ketchup. I much prefer the restaurants in Tremont (especially Fahrenheit which is my fave!) Other responses seem to be so defensive, but I guess for the white bread, Rocky River crowd too cheap to pay the nannies overtime and scared to venture to Tremont this can be a great alternative to Applebees.
Regarding the food, I will have to agree with Elaine on this one. I have been there a handful of times and have not been all that impressed, although we just had apps. The burger was greasy and tasteless and the fish tacos were way too salty. Maybe some growing pains. Fries were good though and we enjoy the wine and the wine list. Chris, the GM provides good service. Maybe I’ll try an entree next time.
good not agree with you more. Extremely disappointed in the food. It was dry, and virtually tasteless. They desperately need a new supply for their bread and buns. We tried their food on two seperate occasions, thinking the first may have been just a fluke. It was not. Its a shame since we love the convenient location and the outdoor area. Wont go back until they get a new chef.