Michael Symon may have earned his reputation crafting
slash-and-burn grouper and beef-cheek pierogies. But his latest
endeavor likely will appeal to his broadest audience yet. Opening last
week at Eton Chagrin, B Spot (28699 Chagrin Blvd., 216.292.5567,
bspotburgers.com) is designed
less to impress than it is simply to please.
Specializing in gourmet burgers, brats and bologna sandwiches, B
Spot is Symon’s most happy-go-lucky restaurant to date. To craft the
best burgers, you gotta start with the best beef, and Symon has come up
with what he believes is the ideal formula: two parts chuck, two parts
sirloin, one part brisket. The meat is imported from legendary New York
meat purveyor Pat LaFrieda, who supplies bespoke blends to the likes of
Danny Meyer and Mario Batali. Seared on a flat top, the six-ounce
patties are tucked into either a brioche bun or a soft English muffin.
There are 15 different iterations, featuring everything from coleslaw,
pastrami and Swiss to corned beef and ‘kraut. Fans of the pitch-perfect
Lola burger, with fried egg, bacon, aged cheddar and onions, will find
it here. Prices range from $5.50 for a “Plain Jane” to $11 for a double
with cheese. Burgers are cooked to the customer’s specification,
meaning those who order a medium-rare burger will get a patty that is
red — not pink — and cool in the center. Diners can
customize their sandwiches by visiting a small condiment station
containing various relishes, pickles and peppers. On every table is
caddy of six sauces that includes Lola ketchup, Stadium Mustard and a
delicious brew called coffee bbq.
Other main dishes include a half-dozen bratwurst combos and an equal
number of fried bologna and miscellaneous sandwiches. It’s strange to
see Lola’s svelte and dainty french fries beneath a landslide of meaty
bean-free chili, but damned if the chili-cheese fries aren’t fun to
eat. The fries share the “bar snack” portion of the menu with
tomato-blue cheese soup, three styles of wings and golden-brown onion
rings. Rounding out the menu are six different salads and ridiculously
thick milkshakes made with Mitchell’s ice cream. Adults can choose from
an exceptional listing of beers, with approximately 50 selections, half
of which are served on draft. There is also a limited selection of
wine. The small, edgy and comfortable space can handle about 120
diners, thanks in part to mall seating. Come springtime, a garage door
will rise and give way to a street-side patio.
This article appears in Dec 2-8, 2009.
