Ever since Sam McNulty opened the Bier Markt (1948 W.
25th St., 216.274.1010, bier-markt.com), he’s been tinkering in
the basement. No, he isn’t restoring a big-block Chevy or building the
ultimate “man cave.” He’s been fabricating another bar. In less than a
month, all that work will pay off when he unveils Speakeasy, a
lower-level club with an anti-establishment vibe. The dimly lit,
grotto-like lounge will specialize in Prohibition-era cocktails and
feature servers in “updated flapper outfits.” Roughly the size of its
upstairs neighbor, Speakeasy will accommodate about 120 guests at a
sizeable central bar, chunky wood high tops and wall-hugging
banquettes. Ingenious Amish-built benches offer space for both seated
and standing friends at long raised tables. Faux gas lamps flicker,
casting an old-timey glow on the 150-year-old hand-chiseled sandstone
walls. Original black-and-white prints by Cleveland artist Clay Parker
follow the Prohibition theme, with images of booze-dumping teetotalers
and sassy, bob-haired flappers. A small stage will feature a wide range
of live entertainment, from trendy DJs to classical recitals. “I have
always loved underground bars,” says McNulty. “La Cave du Vin is my
favorite bar that I don’t own. Humans are den animals at heart.”
Speakeasy will be open Thursdays through Saturdays and for special
events.
“I’ve always lived beyond my years,” says 21-year-old Andrew
Casey. With the ink on his Culinary Institute of America diploma
still wet, the young chef has set his sights on the next big challenge:
overhauling the food at D’Vine Wine Bar (836 W. St. Clair Ave.,
216.241.8463, dvinewinebar.com).
“A lot of people are surprised to learn that we serve food,” he
laments. “I definitely want to change that.” For his externship, Casey
worked at the acclaimed Napa Valley eatery Bouchon. He also spent a few
years cooking at Lolita. He describes his style as “simple and clean,
with a focus on American regional cuisine.” He intends to stick with
the small-plate format, while upgrading quality, presentation and
preparation. New items will include pork meatballs with buffalo
mozzarella, grilled anchovies with fennel-apple ragu and pan-fried
perch with spaetzle. Look for house-cured meats down the road.
Well, that didn’t last long. In February, I reported on the hiring
of talented chef Robert Ledzianowski at the Mad Greek (2466 Fairmount Blvd., 216.421.3333, madgreekcleveland.com). He was part
of the restaurant’s plans to rebuild, rebrand and refine. He recently
resigned from his post, citing irreconcilable differences.
This article appears in Apr 15-21, 2009.
Thank God Mad Greek is back. As a lifetime Mad Greek customer I was shocked when they took away all of their classic dishes in favor of this chefs food. We did like some of the new items, but they weren’t enough to keep us coming back every week like usual. They took away all of the sandwiches and great curry combinations, and replaced them with gourmet entrees. Nothing wrong with it, just not the place or time. Glad our favorite restaurant is back.
I have been going to the bier market since it opened a few years ago. I am disappointed by the over-priced drinks but i am even more disgusted by the kitchen’s hidden secret…
…each and every of the MANY times that i have ordered food at the bier market
(as well as any time i order food at any restaurant) i inquire if there is meat in what i order. as a vegetarian since 1988, i have learned to ask this about every order that i make. after years of inquiring about my orders at the bier market, NOT ONCE was it ever mentioned that the kitchen does not use simple vegetable oil in the fryer…THEY PUT DUCK FAT IN IT !!! when a friend told me about this, i asked the bartender there and she confirmed it. not eating animal products is part of my religion and my ethics. i feel cheated. it is very rude to not have this labeled on the menu or for the servers to not mention this when i asked if any meat was in my food…duck fat is considered to be meat by a vegetarian. SHAME ON YOU BIER MARKET ! YOU LIED TO ME FOR YEARS.