Jae Stulock and Sandy Madachik were planning a move to Boulder to launch a food truck business. The business partners had heard how difficult it was to set up shop in Cleveland, so they had no intent of even trying. Before skipping town, however, they learned about the City of Cleveland’s program to encourage mobile dining options. In six short days, they assembled the necessary paperwork and were accepted into the program.

Madachik, a former office manager at an IT firm, and Stulock, a carpenter, launched Umami Moto in early November.

“I have always wanted to get into the food business,” says Stulock. “Cooking has always been a passion of mine. Following the downturn in the construction business, I said, ‘Now’s the time.'”

Working from a fully equipped rig purchased in Los Angeles, the partners are quickly building a following for their Thai, Vietnamese, and Asian-fusion fare. The concise menu features pad Thai with tofu (or chicken, or shrimp), massaman curry on rice, pork potstickers, and a Vietnamese bahn mi sandwich made with pulled pork. There are options for vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free customers too.

“Business is going really well,” says Stulock. “Being outside in winter isn’t too pleasant, but I come from construction, so I’m used to it. We didn’t want to start in summer and be inundated. Launching in winter gives us a chance to grow our customer base, streamline our systems, and ease into the business.”

Umami Moto roams all over Greater Cleveland. You can track them down via Facebook (facebook.com/UmamiMoto) and Twitter (@UmamiMoto).

Asian Town Center is set to score two new eateries. Going into space originally set aside for the former Crust and Crumbs is Miga Korean BBQ, a more contemporary version of Seoul Hot Pot. Six tables will include grills for diners to prepare bulgogi and kalbi. Also on the menu: shabu-shabu, a dish that features thinly sliced meats cooked tableside in simmering broth.

Look for Miga, which the owner says translates to “beautiful taste,” to open in March.

Meantime, Pho 99 should be ready to go in two weeks, according to owner Vinh Nguyen. Located on the ground floor, the 40-seat Vietnamese restaurant will specialize in pho, but also rice and noodle dishes.

Nguyen has been perfecting his parents’ pho recipe, which they perfected at Pho Batu, a now-defunct Vietnamese restaurant on Denison. He will offer various styles of the beef noodle soup, including a less common spicy variety. Pho will be sold in two sizes: large and jumbo, which is “huge,” says Nguyen. Prices will be around $7 and $9.

Named for the owner’s lucky number, Pho 99 will also offer bubble tea, espresso, and Vietnamese coffee.

Asian Town Center is at 3820 Superior Ave., on the near east side of downtown.

A recent visit to Washington Place Bistro & Inn (2203 Cornell Rd.; washingtonplacelittleitaly.com) was a treat. Highlights included a velvety roasted cauliflower bisque, dotted with a smidgen of blue cheese; and the kitchen’s chicken thigh confit was nearly flawless, with savory pieces of salty, crisp-skinned meat surrounding a dreamy cornbread pudding. Even the meatloaf — a true test of technique — passed our tests with flying colors.

But here’s the interesting point: Washington Place Bistro, as we well know, took over the spot long occupied by the Baricelli Inn. If we remember anything about the Baricelli, it is how expensive the food was, right? Well, I happen to have the last menu from Paul Minnillo’s erstwhile inn, and guess what? Washington Place Bistro ain’t much cheaper.

That wonderful oxtail pierogi appetizer everybody is rightly raving about costs $13 — more than anything on Baricelli’s app list, save for the artisanal cheese and meat boards. Salads are priced exactly the same: $7.50 to $8.50. While Baricelli Inn offered four half pastas priced under $12, Washington Place offers two — and they both come in at higher prices. The biggest difference is among entrées, but even here we’re talking just a couple bucks.

Funny how perceptions can cloud our judgment. — Trattner

For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.

One reply on “Bites: The Umami Moto Food Truck”

  1. Regarding Washington Place and Baricelli: Barcilli Inn’s issue was not their prices (which were reasonable) or their food (which was fantastic). The atmosphere was too formal, and the establishment felt dated. The prices even seemed to be going down during their last year of business (although the entrées were more like $8-10 more than Washington Place if memory serves). Had Baricelli remodeled and publicized it, keeping a similar menu, they likely would have done fine. At least Paul Minnillo will be opening FLOUR, which I’m eagerly awaiting.

    That said, Washington Place also has outstanding food (as was noted) and is well worth visiting. Proprietor Scott Kuhn has updated more than just the building itself. The service is phenomenal. I attended a blogger dinner there, and, while I was impressed, I thought that perhaps the friendliness was largely related to the occasion. A couple I know visited there twice, though, and the second time (almost a month after the first visit), they were recognized and welcomed back, and the waiter even knew what beer the husband drank. While I was apprehensive at first about the replacement of Baricelli Inn, Washington Place is doing a great job ingratiating itself to local diners.

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