Charter House Grille Delivers Familiar Comforts as East 185th Continues its Resurgence

Lamb chops at the Charter House Grille Credit: Photo by Doug Trattner

When the host greeted us at the door of Charter House Grille, she informed the group that she was also working this evening as the bartender, manager and lone server. Taking note of the busy dining room, we assumed the worst as we were ushered to our seats. But our fears went unrealized as the dogged staffer breezed from station to station without a hitch.

This past summer I visited Charter House prior to opening while writing my usual “first look” piece for this magazine, so I had a pretty good idea of what to expect. But the menu that awaited us during a recent visit had almost nothing in common with the one I wrote about all those months ago. Back then, the plan was to dish up the type of playful American gastropub fare one might expect to see on East 4th Street – things like duck-fat fries with béarnaise, double smash burgers, chicken-rillette nuggets and a shrimp Po’ Boy starring head-on prawns.

After parting ways with the opening chef, owner Chris King – an entrepreneur with a deep familiarity of the neighborhood – revisited his original plans for the restaurant.

“I said, let’s go back to the drawing board and do what my first mind was,” King says.

So now, rather than attempting to shoehorn a concept into a space, King says that he tailored the food and beverage to better suit the clientele.

“With our menu we scaled back a few things and we added some things that I think lend ourselves to be more of a restaurant that fits the neighborhood,” he explains.

In place of whimsy, cleverness and conceit are dishes that convey familiarity, comfort and broad appeal. Charter House might not be a destination restaurant for foodies eager to sample the latest trends, but it does feel rooted in and aligned with the community outside its door.

We made quick work of the cheesesteak rolls ($14), two crispy eggrolls cut on the bias to reveal tender chunks of beef, shallots and peppers in a white cheddar sauce. No need to chart new culinary ground when there are crispy fried chicken sliders ($14) around. Three to an order, the sliders are a textural delight thanks to crunchy elements like slaw, sliced pickles and fried shallots sandwiched between fluffy Hawaiian bread. The lightly breaded white-meat chicken is liberally sauced with a zesty chipotle mayo. Other appetizer options include a grilled shrimp cocktail, fried lobster ravioli and wings in various flavors.

There is still a smash burger on the menu, but it’s joined by a salmon burger ($18) that is a cut above the rest. The typically humdrum patty gets a flavor and texture boost, with the crisp-edged, citrus-spiked cake capped with a flavorful Creole-style remoulade. Order the Caesar ($14) and you’ll get a straightforward toss of unblemished romaine, chunky croutons and shingles of good parmesan – with creamy dressing on the side.

Diners in search of creamy comfort can tuck into the penne Alfredo ($20), which manages to stop shy of excess thanks to a mild cheese blend and keen seasoning. Diners can boost the plate with the addition of chicken, steak, salmon or shrimp. If you’re going to drop $42 on lamb chops, pray that they land on the table like the ones served here. Two four-bone mini-racks – arranged like interlocking hands – arrive charred on the outside, medium-rare within. They come with a heaping side of buttery lemon-caper-Dijon sauce, which gilds both the lamb and the accompanying mashed redskin potatoes.

King spent loads of time and money converting the former Bistro 185 from a woodsy neighborhood tavern into a posh but welcoming lounge. Velvet-wrapped booths and banquettes, colorful artwork and a spacious 14-seat quartz bar now await guests. That bar can be improved with a broader selection of beer and wine, tweaks that might join other planned upgrades like a new patio, lunch service and weekend brunch.

“We’re constantly tweaking things because we want to be perfect,” adds King. “You can’t be, but we’re trending in the right direction.”

After years of roadwork and other infrastructure improvement projects that have slowed progress up and down East 185th Street, King is optimistic that now is the time for the neighborhood. Two Friends Brewing brings craft beer to the street, joining enduring anchors like Scotti’s, Irie Jamaican and the Standard.

“With the addition of more businesses and more restaurants, it only creates more synergy, which brings more people to 185th,” says King.

Charter House Grille
991 East 185th St., Cleveland
216-920-2060
charterhousegrille.com

Subscribe to Cleveland Scene newsletters.