For many years, you couldn’t pick up an alt-weekly, newspaper or magazine without reading about the legendary burgers at Stevenson’s Bar in Euclid. If Instagram had been around back then, the joint would have been crowned a “hidden gem” by the content creators who “discovered” it.
The original Stevenson’s Bar – in service until 2013, when the building was demolished – was an old-school diner, where the food was prepared behind the bar in a “kitchen” that consisted of a flattop and deep-fryer. It was largely a locals-only hangout save for the burger enthusiasts, who drove there for the inimitable Big Guy, a double-decker creation that bore a striking resemblance to the Big Boys prepared up the road at Manners.
As for why these particular burgers enjoyed such outsized appeal, the answer likely is a combination of factors such as time, place, taste and – as always – a bit of luck. Regardless the reason, those burgers – a seamless stack of twin patties, triple-split bun, cheese, lettuce and special sauce – kept the humble Stevenson’s Bar in the black for ages.
Stevenson’s Bar didn’t die in 2013, only the building did. Owner Bruce Cerne reopened in a new location a couple miles away. Miraculously, the vibe, menu and burgers all survived the move relatively intact. In 2020, Cerne sold the business to the property owner, who sold it to Perry Ward this past summer.
“I have a master’s degree in history,” says Ward. “I’ve been in food and beverage my whole life. I knew the previous owner. So I was immediately interested.”
An obvious question a food lover might ask is: Are the burgers as good as they used to be? The answer a few years ago would have been “probably not.” But these days, the answer is “they’re better than ever.”
“The burger lost its way in recent years,” Ward says.
One of the first things the new owner did was bring in James Foreman as consulting chef. Order the Big Guy – or the single-patty Lil Fella – today and you’ll enjoy top-quality ground beef from Blue Ribbon Meats, brioche buns from Orlando, and a “special sauce” with historic accuracy. The American cheese is still there, as is the bottomless satisfaction that comes with knocking one back.
Since taking ownership, Ward also has upgraded the kitchen, refurnished the backbar, installed faux-copper ceiling tiles, mounted sleek TVs and updated the restrooms. Next up is new flooring and furniture. These are changes that freshen up the joint without altering its personality.
“That’s the line we’ve been trying to walk,” notes Ward. “Finding success in bars and restaurants is very difficult and you don’t want to mess with that. But we don’t want to remain stagnant. We try and use the word ‘improvement’ rather than use the word ‘change.’”
In the coming weeks, diners will begin to observe some of those changes on the menu, which has remained essentially unchanged for eons. Low-value items like frozen zucchini sticks, breaded mushrooms and fried clam strips will be replaced by freshly made starters and sides. Stevenson’s will soon serve its first fried chicken sandwich starring jumbo tenders marinated for two days in buttermilk, pickle juice and hot sauce. Foreman makes a killer Italian beef sandwich with shaved eye of round and housemade giardiniera.
Other items that might soon appear include fried brussels sprouts with pork belly and sriracha honey, Coca-Cola-braised beef short rib tacos with chimichurri, pickled onion and crema, fresh-cut fries with truffle and parmesan, and made-to-order milkshakes – including the boozy variety.
It wouldn’t take much to step up the bar program – and Ward intends to do just that, adding more beer, wine, cocktails and festive specials.
While the old haunt oozed charisma earned the honest way, the new digs felt a bit sterile by comparison. Right now the place is decked out for the holidays, but Ward intends to complement all the recent cosmetic changes with items that showcase Stevenson’s history and accolades. Many of the old press clippings and awards had been boxed up in the basement and he recently stumbled upon the old sign behind the garage. The vintage bowling machine is going nowhere.
“While I know we have to move in a new direction, I also wanted to make the history more prominent,” adds Ward. “Stevenson’s has always been a humble burger joint and I don’t want to lose that. I want us to remain true to the history and remain true to the area. Muddy boots will always be welcome here.”
Stevenson’s is now open for lunch and dinner every day of the week.
Stevenson’s Bar
800 E. 200th St., Euclid
216-999-7156
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This article appears in Dec 18-31, 2024.
