First Look: Banter, Opening January 2024 in Gordon Square

When Matthew Stipe closed the original Banter in Detroit Shoreway back in 2020, he vowed to return, ideally in the very same neighborhood. Two years later, he announced that he had found that spot in the former home of Minh Anh in Gordon Square, which had closed the previous year.

"When we wanted to reopen, there was no other neighborhood that we wanted to be in," Stipe explains. "We looked at a number of spots, but this feels like home. I do feel that we are the right stewards to take over what was such an important restaurant for so many people in this town."

Now, a little more than three years after closing down the street, Banter (5428 Detroit Ave.) is preparing to welcome its first guests. The official company line has progressed from "soon" to "imminent," with an opening slated to occur within the next week or so.

Like the original, and unlike the fast-casual version that resides in the Market Hall at Van Aken District in Shaker, the Gordon Square Banter marks a return to sit-down, full-service dining.

"Here, we wanted to reestablish ourselves and elevate both the cuisine and dining experience back to what people expected at the original restaurant," adds Stipe. "The experience out in Shaker is wonderful, but it's different. I think that our guests are looking forward to a more traditional dining experience."

The completely renovated double storefront is broken up into two main spaces: the barroom and dining room. The occupancy has risen from about 60 to 95, including a larger bar, new booths and more tables. A side patio will come online in spring.

Chef Nick Dlugoss has taken the menu back to its classic framework of poutine, sausages, corndogs and starters, with more options in each category. The fried cheese curds are back, joined by a Polish Boy, Mexican street corndog, chicken shawarma poutine and others. Every bottle of champagne comes with a free side of fries.

In addition to the beer and wine lists, there is an all new cocktail list this time around.

One of the most notable changes can be found in the retail selection, which has been pared down to 40 beers and 120 wines. Those items are available for on-premises enjoyment with a small corkage fee or to-go.

"Even before we closed the old restaurant we had the discussion that, for numerous reasons, we would limit it," Stipe says of the retail offerings.

Banter might have some of the coolest windows in town. With the help of counterweights, the four street-facing windows raise to awning height, bringing in the sights and sounds of the neighborhood beyond.

As Stipe readies the space for its first guests, he can't help but feel a little anxious given the lengthy delay.

"I am excited," he says. "There's always some trepidation but I've opened up enough restaurants — either for myself or others — that I feel pretty calm. You can never be 100-percent prepared, but you can be prepared enough."

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