The interior of a building.
Domo Sushi in Ohio City Credit: Doug Trattner

I owe Carmen Paponetti a debt of gratitude for introducing me to the joys of okonomiyaki. The first one I ever encountered was at Domo Yakitori and Sushi, the chef’s Japanese street-food stand in the Market Hall at Van Aken District. There, along with the takoyaki, yakitori and a rainbow of sushi rolls, was an item that I had seen only on social media. Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is a many-layered savory pancake that is cooked in stages on a griddle. The base model is comprised of shredded green cabbage, egg, bacon, noodles, spicy mayo, okonomiyaki sauce and bonito flakes, but there are many variations on the theme.

When Paponetti opens Domo Sushi (3924 Lorain Ave., 216-352-1972) in Ohio City, the okonomiyaki will be on the menu. In fact, he has expanded the selection of iterations to include options starring snow crab, Korean fried chicken, and sauteed shrimp. The only item to have not made the move from Shaker is the yakitori.

But Paponetti knows that the bulk of his business likely will be in the form of sushi.

“When we first opened at Van Aken, I wanted to focus on yakatori and okonomiyaki, but 80-percent of our sales were take-out sushi,” he explains.

Paponetti acquired those skills working at Century at the Ritz, Goma and Parallax, where he worked as head sushi chef.

In Ohio City, where the closest sushi supply is a display cooler at Dave’s Market, Domo should be in high demand. Working alongside chef David Rosado, Paponetti will prepare a wide selection of nigiri, sashimi, vegetarian rolls, sushi rolls, large specialty rolls and sushi bowls.

But while the owner does expect to see brisk sales for pick-up and delivery foods, he hopes that a fair share of diners will grab a seat at the sushi counter and enjoy a more interactive experience. At that counter, diners can sample fresh, seasonal items like uni, toro and other fishes while watching the chefs roll sushi, fry up okonomiyaki and patiently cook takoyaki.

Domo Sushi is awaiting its final inspections. If all goes as planned, the shop will open in the coming days or weeks.

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For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.