“Before pop-ups were cool, there was tailgating,” he explains.
Brooks has taken his lifelong obsession with food and cooking and turned it into a vocation. His barbecue restaurant, Sweet Pork Wilson’s (11634 Madison Ave., 216-938-5673), will celebrate its grand opening this weekend. Brooks gutted and rebuilt the former Highland Tavern at the corner of Madison and 117th, which is located across the street from the RTA station.
“I have 26 feet of cooking space outside,” says Brooks. “When you come here, you’re going to smell me before you see me.”
Coming off those wood-fueled pits are barbecue staples like beef brisket, pulled pork, ribs and chicken wings. Brooks describes his style as an amalgamation, much like the city he calls home.
“Cleveland is diverse – it’s everything – and it’s who I am,” he says. “That’s what barbecue should be: it should be a reflection of who you are. I’m not trying to copy anybody. I call our sauce ‘America’s Sauce’ because Cleveland is everywhere and we have everything. It’s what I ate growing up.”
In addition to the classic BBQ platters, Brooks offers Polish Boys, Polish Girls and chicken cheesesteaks made with smoked chicken thighs, peppers and onions, which are a hit with hurried commuters, he adds.
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This article appears in Aug 23 – Sep 5, 2023.

