The first time I interviewed Rocco Whalen, we had to stand on opposite sides of the pass because the Tremont kitchen wasn’t large enough to accommodate the both of us. Fast forward 21 years to this past July, when the chef was holding court in his shimmering show kitchen on Public Square. Not only was the space large enough for two, it could double as Kitchen Stadium for “Iron Chef America,” with room enough for a studio audience.
Apart from the name, some key players and a handful of menu items, Fahrenheit Downtown shares few similarities with the original bistro that helped keep Tremont’s dining scene aloft since 2002. The dramatic restaurant also bears little resemblance to John Q's, the steakhouse that long existed at this address, save for an ornate wooden bar tucked into a private dining room.
In many ways, Fahrenheit feels like the proverbial pot of gold at the end of the rainbow for Whalen: a tribute for a job well done for nearly 30 years. Not many local chefs have the star power required to lure diners to an expensive restaurant in the heart of downtown (which also happens to be a construction zone at the moment). But Whalen has always drawn big crowds thanks to his outsized personality, eclectic and approachable foods, and knack for treating everybody like a VIP, from high-powered sports celebs to young couples on a budget.
That “budget” part might have gotten a little more difficult. For now, at least, there are no happy hour deals waiting for bar patrons; those delectable thin-crusted pizzas that helped put Whalen on the map got lost in the move; pasta has been relegated to the apps and sides categories; and most of the new menu items lean luxe, such as caviar service, icy seafood towers and pricey prime steaks.
The dishes that did make the move seem spiffier, prepared and plated at a higher level. I don’t remember the potato nachos ($17) being this thin, this crisp, this mountainous and this indulgent. Those OG Vietnamese spring rolls ($15) – cut on the bias as always – arrive with an array of colorful condiments, garnishes and sauces. The dan dan dumplings ($20) are new, but they fall right in line with Whalen’s fun, flavorful take on Asian cuisine. They more closely resemble Sichuan-style wontons, delicate pork-stuffed wrappers bobbing in a tongue-tingling sauce.
Most of the affordable fun can be found in that appetizer section – a roster of a dozen shareable small plates. I have never enjoyed eggplant as much as I did while snacking on Mr. Loo’s Lettuce Cups ($13). The typically sad, sodden vegetable was transformed into a dark, savory and crispy filling for the bright green lettuce wraps. At $9 per noodle, the Umami Ravioli ($18) is no bargain, but we adored the fresh pasta, meaty trumpet mushrooms and creamy filling. In the Seared Ohio Wagyu ($22), carpaccio-thin slices of steak are blasted with a blowtorch to crisp up the edges. That money is better spent on a real chop, in my opinion.
If you’re like me and you avoid filet, be prepared to spend at least $75 for a steak. But for this level of quality and care, that price isn’t out of line with current steakhouse prices. My USDA Prime 22-ounce bone-in ribeye ($75) was textbook: aggressively charred, assertively seasoned, blissfully marbled and broiled not one degree past medium-rare. The perfunctory asparagus and mashers are included; the silky bearnaise ($3) is extra.
We are happy to report that Whalen’s trademark braised short ribs ($45) are still drawing raves, aromatic fork-tender beef served atop chewy lo mein noodles in a seductive five-spice fueled sauce. One evening, the kitchen had “86’d” the walleye entrée but kindly subbed halibut for the same price ($34). The chubby filet was flaky, fresh and sweet, served with fingerlings and sautéed green beans.
Fahrenheit came along when conventional fine-dining restaurants were being replaced by hip, casual and lively chef-driven bistros. The new Fahrenheit is much grander, more theatrical than the original, but guests are still able to cut loose and make some noise. The large three-sided bar and adjoining lounge already has become the watering hole of choice for many downtown workers. At happy hour, the roar might be deafening but it beats the dead quiet that persisted for years in this district. There, over $18 gin martinis, guests talk with genuine optimism about downtown Cleveland’s future. And just as he did to help bolster Tremont during its historic revitalization, Whalen is now rooted in the heart of the city to do the same.
Fahrenheit
55 Public Sq., Cleveland
216-781-8858
chefroccowhalen.com/fahrenheit-cleveland
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