Review: Heritage Steak & Whiskey Wines, Dines and Shines With Style

Having dined at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, trust me when I say that Heritage Steak & Whiskey, its successor, has completely flipped the script. The somber, heavy and dated décor, which had been the defining character of the space since Fleming’s opened in the early 2000s, has been jettisoned in favor of a more contemporary vibe. Owner Doug Petkovic took his time – nearly two years – in building a classically attractive space that should feel fresh for ages.

An expensive new steakhouse on the east side of Cleveland is hardly plugging a gap in the local dining scene. But there is always room for an operator who does things better, different or both. As Michael Symon’s longtime business partner (though not on this project), Petkovic brings a level of service that comes from having worked at the highest levels of the industry for 40 years. His is an old-school hospitality approach that trickles down to every manager, server, bartender, food runner and busser.

A wall of wine, not unlike the cellar that formed the backbar of Lola Bistro on East 4th Street, anchors the uncluttered dining room. If there is a labor shortage afflicting local restaurants, one wouldn’t know it by eating here, where white-jacketed staffers appear to outnumber diners. Order a special bottle of wine – say, a stunning Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhône Valley ($200) – and Petkovic himself likely will open, decant it, and pour the first sip. Cocktails, like a spicy rye Manhattan ($18), arrive in the fine crystal glassware.

Even in today’s challenging restaurant climate, pricey steakhouses appear immune from struggle. Despite a handful of high-end steakhouses in the immediate area, Heritage has been packing people in since it opened in late November, proof that when you combine exceptional food, service and setting, people respond. It’s also proof that, for many, there still is no better way to celebrate a big win than by slicing into a thick, beefy steak.

When my center-cut ribeye ($75) arrived, I was taken aback by its aggressively charred appearance, a product of the wood- and charcoal-fired grill. But that intensely blackened and seasoned exterior only managed to accentuate the bright-red core of tender, flavorful beef. In terms of "garnishes," it's tough to top the cylinder of roasted bone marrow that diners use to gild the lily. Pound for pound, though, the wagyu hangar steak ($45) might be the best deal on the menu, boosted in flavor by the subtle wood smoke. Other options include a filet, strip, bone-in ribeye and ribeye cap. Add-ons like the whisky peppercorn sauce ($5) or bearnaise ($5) are non-negotiable.


For non-steak eaters, executive chef Jeff Gable offers options like a double-bone pork chop, duck confit, seared tuna and linguini with clams. A juicy roasted half chicken ($28) is served on a thick slice of garlic bread and topped with a punchy pepper, olive and caper relish. The chef finds a way to make ubiquitous steakhouse sides like grilled asparagus ($14), potato gratin ($15) and roasted mushrooms ($14) stand out thanks to sharp technique while throwing in a few curveballs like creamy mustard greens ($13) and chili-spiked snap peas ($12). To begin, you can’t go wrong with the expertly shucked oysters ($18), chunky hangar-steak tartar ($18) or roasted shrimp ($20) with romesco sauce, though next time I’ll likely opt for the classic shrimp cocktail. Heritage’s wedge salad ($12) is a textural triumph, with layers of crisp iceberg, chewy lardons of bacon, and melt-in-your-mouth blue cheese.

I expected an exceptional steakhouse experience at Heritage, but what I didn’t anticipate was the lively bar scene. A completely reimagined lounge area, separated from the dining room by a collection of the finest whiskies to exit a barrel, has its own climate. Casual enough for a solo burger and a beer at the bar, but also perfect for a nightcap for two at one of the posh soft-seating areas. If the bottom bun was a wee bit sturdier, that burger ($20) – topped with a thin slice of pork belly, gouda and sauteed onions – would be among the city’s most satisfying. I’d get it again just for the thick, crisp steak fries.

Watching the owner work the room one evening, I flashed back to a night 20 years prior, when Petkovic opened the doors to his first restaurant. Despite his best efforts, Theory in Tremont lasted just shy of two years. This go around, with another two decades of hospitality wisdom under Petkovic’s belt, the odds seem far better in his favor.

Heritage Steak & Whiskey
28869 Chagrin Blvd., Eton Chagrin, Woodmere
216-508-4650
heritagesteakandwhiskey.com

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