Unlike my dining companions, I was looking forward to trying SalsaRito, which opened six weeks ago in Tremont. Having the luxury of previously discussing the project with the owner in advance of an article, I understood the concept in ways that my friends did not. To them, SalsaRito sounded like a worst-of-both-worlds proposition, where they could enjoy neither their favorite Mexican platters nor spice-laden Indian curries. To me, however, the setup sounded compelling, a cutting-edge mashup where East meets West in delicious new ways.
In reality, our experiences landed somewhere in between, neither rising to my lofty expectations nor sinking down to my companions’ negative preconceptions. Which is to say, none of us are ditching other plans to return anytime soon.
For roughly four years, owner Ashish Patel has been operating the successful Indian restaurant Tandul in the very same neighborhood, so he’s no amateur when it comes to the industry. He described SalsaRito as essentially a Mexican restaurant, but one with some Indian spices and flavors incorporated into sauces, salsas and entrees. That became apparent almost immediately, when we detected the presence of ginger in the salsa that accompanied a basket of thin, crisp chips. With that one unconventional addition, our party began splintering into factions in favor of support and desertion.
From the outside, a quartet of deep-fried samosas ($5.99) looks identical to those served at any Indian restaurant, right down to the green and red chutneys served on the side. The twist here is the filling, a Tex-Mex blend of black beans, cheese and peppers that while hardly revolutionary is enjoyable all the same. The Mexican falafel tacos ($8.99), on the other hand, failed to summon the pleasures of a savory taco or fluffy falafel wrap. In the crook of the soft corn tortillas were dry, crumbly “falafel” balls made from black beans. They come topped with avocado, salsas and pre-shredded, bagged cheese and lettuce.
The bulk of the menu is comprised of nearly 20 varieties of burrito and enchilada, but it’s often nearly impossible to distinguish one from another. Save for the titular ingredient, the paneer tikka burrito ($9.99), chicken tikka burrito ($11.99) and chicken and steak enchilada ($10.99) are nearly identical in construction. Large flour wrappers are folded around a small portion of the namesake item, which is overshadowed by an onslaught of sauteed peppers and onions. They all get slicked with sauce and sided by lackluster rice and beans.
The space, formerly home to roughly half of all failed Tremont restaurants, is attractive but blindingly bright. Service was fine, portions are robust, but the consensus was if management simply went with better-quality Mexican/Tex-Mex food, they’d win over a more sizable following.
This article appears in Nov 13-19, 2019.
The kingmaker has spoken. I expect this place to be closed within 6 months.
Six months, my ass. try six weeks. Much more snark and sarcasm than usual…would that be snarcasm?
More mushy slop
Hey, the plates look nice…is that Fiestaware, from the factory on the WV side of the Ahia Ribber?
And this is why Cleveland can’t have nice things — stupid people break them. Objectively, the dishes here are creative combinations of flavors that are uncommonly found together; whether they are tasty or not, which would be an obvious topic of a review of this place, did not seem to enter the discussion. To address the issues that were raised: 1) The reviewers’ expectations are irrelevant, and that the reviewer was disappointed doesn’t matter. Why would this be the lead for the review? 2) The notion that dishes were mostly combinations of the same ingredients holds true throughout a number of cuisines, particularly Mexican and to a lesser extent Indian. Why was the reviewer unaware of this to the degree that he would be surprised and disappointed to discover it? 3) The lighting in the dining room is incapable of “blindingly bright” levels. This hyperbolic claim is false (or maybe better characterized a lie). 4) If you wanted Mexican food there are other options, known here and elsewhere as “Mexican restaurants.” It’s inappropriate to go to SalsaRito and complain that it’s not a Mexican restaurant.
Now, for what it’s worth, we thought the dishes were great — terrific flavor combinations, and generally healthy foods, better than the straight-line Indian and Mexican dishes from which they are derived. It’s a fabulous addition to the local dining scene. For those that want them, there are fairly standard Mexican dishes available, but that’s not what’s most fun about this place. Also, the service was above average, and the dining room was comfortable and appropriately lighted.
Well said, “greatful-diner“. Congrats to them for bringing in a new concept. Underwhelmed with average “unauthentic” Mexican restaurants on every corner, and enjoying Indian food, I enjoyed my experience there and plan on returning soon. I wish Salsa all the best for a successful run!