Owner Marc-Aurele Buholzer working the oven. Credit: Douglas Trattner
“We put this oven in a few years ago hoping that the space would open up allowing us to expand,” says Marc-Aurele Buholzer, owner of Vero Pizza (12421 Cedar Rd., 216-229-8383) in Cleveland Heights.

As one of the best Neapolitan pizzerias in the country, Vero attracts a steady stream of admirers – so much so that the 45-seat restaurant is perennially packed. On any given evening, diners can expect to wait up to an hour or longer for a seat.

“Three out of five days, consistently, there’s an hour-and-a-half waitlist 10 minutes after opening,” explains Buholzer. “We turn away so many freaking people. If you look at our reviews, if you listen to people’s criticism of us, it’s always, ‘It’s too hard to get a table. The wait is too long.’ Things that have to do with the space. So expanding is a no-brainer.”

When the adjacent space, long home to Reflections Interior Design, became available, Buholzer executed his right of first refusal and got to work. His plans call for creating a nearly identical space, complete with open, industrial stairs leading to a mezzanine. The addition will double the seating to about 90 and include a 12-seat marble-topped bar. Vero has long had a beer and wine license, but will soon possess a full liquor license. The small bar in the original space will be removed, opening up that area to seating. The final steps will include opening up a doorway to connect the spaces as well as a long window between the two dining rooms.

In anticipation of future expansion, Buholzer installed a 6,000-pound Italian-made wood-burning oven two years ago. It cooks pizzas in 60 to 90 seconds compared to the two to three minutes of its predecessor. But up until recently, Vero was essentially a one-man operation because the owner was the only person who could “open the dough,” stretching and preparing it for the toppings. He still is the only one to work the oven, but he now has kitchen pros to increase the speed and efficiency of the process.

“I’m finally at the point now where I can confidently train people to make pizza,” he says. “I don’t think people should teach until they are true masters.”

Buholzer said he is hoping to welcome his first guests in the new space before the holidays.

Owner Marc-Aurele Buholzer in the adjacent space, soon to become part of Vero. Credit: Douglas Trattner

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For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.